Tim Ho Wan

Posted:
 

Riding the coattails of Lung King Heen’s three Michelin stars, their dim sum chef took off to open his own outlet that caters to salarymen. This time, there’s no fuss, no views and no napkins. The service is minimal, the menu is on a tick sheet, and the lines outside – ridiculous.

We arrived promptly at 6.30pm and were told there would be an hour’s wait. There was nothing to note as far as decor goes: tiny tables squeezed together, diners elbow to elbow, and an eerie silence in the dining room. Finally seated, we dove at the menu, pencil in hand, tick, tick, tick.

We dined at Lung King Heen the morning prior to this review and we ordered a similar menu. Their famous crystal dumplings with chives and shrimp ($16) were exactly the same as my morning fix at a fraction of the price. Ditto for the roast pork rice rolls ($13). The silky rice rolls slip on the tongue and the pork dotted evenly on the sheet, was savoury. Chef Pui’s stellar credentials were completely justified.
The happy journey continued with their char sui bao ($12). Evenly rolled sweet dough, made sweeter with a sugar-lard topping (think pineapple bun) was filled with a salty-sweet glue of hoisin and roast pork. The filling was short on content but full on flavour.

Chef Pui diverges from his previous employer, however, with additions such as preserved vegetables and meat pie steamed over rice ($15). It is all about ingredients and timing on this dish, and sadly, this one failed. The meat pie spent too much time in the steamer, making the protein tight and chewy; the flavour came mostly from the soy sauce. Skip the radish cake ($10) as well – there’s too much flour in the cake and it needed more time in the pan. On the other hand, the ma lai go (steamed sponge cake, $9), was bouncy to the touch and not overly sweet. It cools quickly so eat this as soon as it arrives.

The silence of the room, we realised finally, was actually quiet reverence as the diners concentrated on their superstar meal at C-list prices. They, and we, were wowed.

Angie Wong

G/F, Phase 2, Tsui Yuen Mansion, 2-20 Kwong Wa St, Mong Kok, 2332 2896. Daily 10am-11pm.
Meal for two: $60.

Tags:

3 Comments Add your comment

  • Please please tell me there's an English version of the menu, I'd hate to miss out on this place!! (I was amazed at my recent visit to Hunan Garden in Exchange Square, that they did not have an English version of the dim sum tick-sheet)

    Posted by Fiona on May 21, 2009 at 11:19 AM
  • They had a English language menu when we went 26 Dec 2009. Waiting time was 2 hrs. They will give you a booking number after you arrive and you can come back but you mist be there when they call your number. Food was exquisite

    Posted by SteveHK on December 26, 2009 at 05:39 AM
  • Please advise whether they do take phone booking instead of taking booking number upon arrival?

    Posted by Mindy on August 25, 2011 at 07:35 AM

Add your comment

Time Out Hong Kong reserves the right to remove or edit comments that are potentially defamatory or offensive.