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What is often associated with healthy and organic eating is dispelled here at Beo. You won’t find lentil-munching, wheatgrass-sipping yogi diners here. Instead polished chemical-free dining with good technique, simple presentations, and generous portions await the customer. Their produce comes mostly from organic farms in Australia and from our own backyard in the New Territories with some greens served within 24 hours of being in the ground. Diners should note that most, but not all, their ingredients are certified organic.

We dined late and were the only table left just before the kitchen closed. This may have accounted for the room looking a little stark and cold. Though with their wall of windows opened looking out onto the green-leafy backyard of Central which you rarely see, we imagine this is a wonderful venue for lunch. Downstairs, an all-white ultra-lounge serves pre- and post-dinner drinks in what could be the leftover set from Jane Fonda’s 1968 cult film Barbarella.

We choose a simple salad ($70) – clean, crisp and not bitter as other mixed greens often taste. They’ve garnished it with parmesan crisps with a drizzle of olive oil. Lemon confit dressing came on the side but we skipped it. The kitchen was obliging in allowing us make some simple changes such as serving the sauces and dressings on the side, and whilst the staff were engaging, having a little knowledge about what goes into each dish would have been appreciated.

Aiming for lighter options for entrees, we chose the wild salmon and the fresh halibut. The Tasmanian salmon ($200)was beautifully grilled, nestled on thinly shaved zucchini and red peppers. The pineapple reduction was perhaps the only mismatch on the plate, though our own addition of the lemon confit from our salad cut the richness of the salmon nicely. The halibut ($200) was beautifully cooked, well flavoured and moist, though sadly the advertised “mustard and herb crusted” lacked the bite of mustard that appealed to us when ordering. The tomato and fennel fondue that accompanied the fish matched pleasantly.

Sadly, we opted out of dessert as it was getting late. Though, we’ll definitely be back as the food is real, the owner is convivial, the staff are friendly, and the dining room, whilst a little cold, is relaxed.