Food columnist and TV celeb chef Jacky ‘Xi Yan’ Yu opened Xi Yan Flavours in West Kowloon’s Elements Mall last month, the latest branch in his ever-expanding empire. Yu was first celebrated for his well-crafted Chinese sauces, which used traditional French techniques and a melting-pot take on Chinese cuisine. However, the worldwide Xi Yan family of restaurants have, sadly, now become a mass brand, meaning they’ve lost some of their original charm.

Flavours is decorated in Yu’s signature Chinese contemporary design; think G.O.D. fashion meets Communist red. The space is roomy, though the tables are set a little too close for comfort. Indeed, while a neighbouring diner slurped and sweated over a bowl of spicy dan dan noodles, bits of it flew over to our table.

The food portions are small, and the menu follows Xi Yan’s successful formula of combining Thai and Malaysian styles with Chinese cuisine. Most favourites remain on the menu, such as greenhouse tomato with sesame sauce ($38) and pickled Chinese gooseberry ($32), though the Sichuan spicy chicken ($108) seems to have been toned down for the Elements location, so if you’re a fan of the original, best request a hotter version.

The braised golden abalone in Japanese sake and soy sauce ($138) is worth ordering as well; the sweet liquor aroma of the sake heightens the fresh taste. But it is Yu’s desserts that are especially renowned, so make sure you leave sufficient space for their famous lychee ice cream ($42), an extremely good way to refresh your taste buds after a big savoury meal.

KC Gourmet