When you’re dining at a food court, you generally know what to expect. The fare can be predictable, with franchise outlets selling easy-to-please fast food. Riche Bistro & Yu seeks to defy the stereotype with a bit of variety – serving both Western and spicy Sichuan classics. Sounds good, particularly when we hear the owner was a sous-chef at Caprice. Shame, though. Because it isn’t.
Riche is in Maxi Mall – and its interiors are mall-ish: clean, sterile and spacious. There are mismatched garden party-meets-Campbell’s Soup souvenir store displays across the venue, which look out of place. And the menu is massive. We order the marinated aubergine ($37), the baked pork chop rice ($55), the marinated century eggs ($37) and the chilled Sichuan spicy chicken noodles ($68). Seems like a feast, eh? It should be, except the portions here are so minute that we have to add on the US baby back ribs ($125) to keep us from hunger. And we’re glad we do as the meat is juicy and the marinade is spot on. However, the same can’t be said for any of the Sichuan fare. Each dish just seems to be hyper-spicy and lacks the complexities that would come from a skilled kitchen. And here’s the problem – by trying to do everything, this place, save some decent ribs, does nothing well. As we leave the mall, we spot a poster advertising hot pot at Riche. How much more can one menu take?! Janice Jann
Riche Bistro & Yu Shop 298, B/F, Maxi Mall, 233 Electric Rd, North Point, 2628 6882; fb.com/richebistro.yu. Dinner for two: $400.