Let's get crackin'
Baked, steamed, boiled or fried, Dorothy So lays down with some truly eggs-cellent offerings. Photography by Calvin Sit
Fried at Ma Sa
This tiny storefront has been around for more than two decades. The 80-deep menu lists your usual cha chaan teng fare such as stir-fried beef noodles and elbow macaroni but it’s really the fried eggs with rice ($25) that steals the spotlight. The kitchen one-ups its competition by serving three eggs per order (as opposed to the usual two) and the whole set comes with a generous helping of char siu or ham on the side. Diners can order scrambled or ‘over well’ eggs but our personal favourite is the sunny side up, which comes with barely set orange yolks still wobbling in their whites. It’s an insanely fulfilling meal, especially when it’s all mixed together with a dash of dark soy sauce. Word of warning – this dish tends to sell out by mid-afternoon so go a little early if you want in on this yolk. 23 Hillier St, Sheung Wan, 2545 9026 & 2854 3139.
Slow-cooked at The Principal
These perfectly cooked 63-degree eggs are only available during The Principal’s Sunday brunch but trust us – they’re definitely worth waking up for. Part of the seven-course degustation menu ($590; $690 with free-flow drinks), the slightly translucent orb floats on a pool of creamy parmentier and is embellished with Iberico ham, chorizo or crisp artichoke chips with fava beans and truffle. Pierce the white and you’ll reach the runny, yolky core. You’ll notice that it looks brighter and tastes better than the average supermarket shelled species because chef de cuisine Jonay Armas insists on using natural, free-range eggs. We thank him for that. If slow-cooked eggs aren’t your jam, Armas also offers raw quail eggs on beef tartare and quiches as alternative mains. 9 Star St, Wan Chai, 2563 3444; theprincipal.com.hk.
Baked at Passion by Gérard Dubois
This charming café (opened by La Rose Noire’s founder) may be best known for its breads and cakes but we’ll happily shine a light on its quiches. They’re simple but satisfying with buttery crusts swelled with fragrant egg custard. The fillings are generously studded with savoury ingredients including smoked salmon ($32/slice) and broccoli with mushrooms ($28/slice). Our recommendation? Go for the classic quiche lorraine ($28/slice) baked with bacon, cheese and diced onions. 74-78 Johnston Rd, Wan Chai, 2529 1311; passionbygd.com.
Steamed at Man Sing
Don’t be fooled by the down-and-dirty set-up; Man Sing is one of the hottest tables in town and you should expect to get in line for a seat. The longstanding popularity is attributed to the awesome food, including the steamed eggs embedded with a whole fresh crab ($59). It’s silken smooth and drizzled with soy sauce. Of course, we can’t talk about Man Sing without also mentioning the signature meat cake with salted egg yolk ($48). Order these two dishes and you’ll be happy. 16 Wun Sha St, Tai Hang, 2576 7272.
Preserved at Tim’s Kitchen
Never judge a book by its cover, especially when it’s with something like a century duck egg (free during dinner service). Preserved in clay, the gelatinous, black spheres may not look or sound particularly appealing but they’re all sorts of addictive, especially when the creamy, pungent centres are eaten with pickled ginger. 84-90 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan, 2543 5919; timskitchen.com.hk.
Smoked at Dong Lai Shun
This Shanghainese dish is best made with duck eggs. The whites are dyed brown and scented with smoke while the centres remain molten. Served in halves, the yolks are usually piqued with a dash of brine. Traditionally, it’s a sprinkle of salt and pepper but the chefs at Dong Lai Shun go luxurious with a few strands of conpoy ($28). B2/F, The Royal Garden, 69 Mody Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2733 2020.
Hard-boiled at Bo-Lo’Gne
We’re not the biggest fans of hard-boiled eggs on their own. But it’s a different story when they’re roughly diced and tossed in mayo. While there are plenty of places that do a decent egg salad, we prefer to eat ours in a sandwich ($60) between two pieces of Bo-Lo’Gne’s buttery bread. 41 Aberdeen St, Soho, 2950 0600; Shop 1, 3/F, LCX, Ocean Terminal, 17 Canton Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2730 4400; bolognehk.com.
Poached at Brick Lane Gallery
Poaching eggs is an art and Brick Lane gets it right. Order the classic Benedict ($78), which has an English muffin piled with wilted spinach, bacon or ham, and a poached egg dressed in Hollandaise sauce. The restaurant also offers gussied-up versions layered with Parma ham ($85) or topped with black truffles ($98). 17-23 Minden Ave, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721 0628; bricklane.com.hk.