Building a sandwich is easy. You find the right filling, shove it between slices of bread et voilà – it’s an instant snack that doesn’t require much brainwork to prepare. At ‘wich, however, the humble sarnie is brought into noble standings with a menu filled with high-end ingredients and toasted-to-order loaves.
Business is driven mainly by quick lunch and take-out orders but the space is also fitted with a chef’s table area where sandwich dining is treated like a fancy gastronomic experience. With a few days notice, the chefs can do an omakase-style sandwich menu (starting from $100). Otherwise, the à la carte selection lists a handful of options. We start with the ‘funghi porcini’ ($55) – a soft roll that’s split down the middle and loaded with sautéed mixed mushrooms and fresh garden herbs. A schmear of chunky ‘shroom purée lends bulk and bind, giving a satisfying meatiness to the vegetarian creation.
Other sandwiches are hosted in crusty baguettes, including the ‘jaws’ ($50) – a variation of a lunchbox classic that’s outfitted with Sicilian tuna, home-pickled lemon and fresh dill. There’s an anise-y appeal from strips of marinated fennel. And while we’re talking about tasty things to tuck into a loaf, try the ‘pork belly futures’ ($65), which has slabs of crackling-crusted meat bedded with balsamic-spiked red cabbage slaw. There’s some serious condiment craftsmanship at play here with tart, Granny Smith apple and shiso purée providing the necessary acidic balance.
There are also rotating specials such as the ‘ping pong’ ($55), a combo of sauced up meatballs, green beans and raw ginger. This is the weakest out of the sandwiches we try (the meat is mild and easily overshadowed) but we’ll shine a light on the homespun salsa verde that soaks into the bottom half of the baguette. It’s fresh and herby with a delicious, savoury pluck.
To end, the restaurant offers a selection of ice cream sandwiches served in full or halved, open-face portions ($60 and $35, respectively). Your first instinct may be to go for the chocolate truffle gelato on choco-chip cookie, but we’re more impressed with the ‘sesame street’ (black sesame gelato on sesame cookie) and pistachio gelato on lemon-poppyseed base. They’re less intricate than the savoury options but that shouldn’t stop you from digging into the melty mess. ‘wich also does daily soups and salads but if you want to taste the best that this shop has to offer, then it’s all about what’s served between the slices. Dorothy So
2 Anton St, Wan Chai. Mon-Sat 8am-8pm. Closed Sun. Dinner for two: around $300.