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Libertine

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Housed on the horrendously steep slope of Aberdeen Street (note to girls: don’t wear heels), Libertine is Soho’s latest venue to jump on to the French brasserie bandwagon (better late than never, we guess). The space is gorgeous – an expansive, high-ceiling dining room with wooden chairs and plush red banquettes inside, and a few high tables and stools set outside for those who want a coffee or a glass of wine after dinner.

The menu appears equally enticing at first, a single page dedicated to fuss-free French dishes. We stick with the classics, beginning with the duck liver terrine plated with a simple side salad ($98). It’s delicately seasoned with an ever-so-slight gaminess balanced by the tart cornichons. We love that it’s served with thick slices of grilled country bread but the charred smokiness overpowers the faint flavours of the pâté. It’s best to eat these separately. Next up – escargot smothered in a subtle garlic pesto ($88). The dish is lukewarm and some of the snails arrive drier than the others. But the sauce is delicious, perfect for sopping up with the thin slivers of toast served on the side. We can’t complain too much about the hors d’oeuvres though, because they’re arguably the best part of Libertine’s menu.

The homemade pappardelle with truffle, almonds and parmesan cream ($138) is the first let-down, arriving poorly under-sauced. But it’s not quite as disappointing as the steak frites ($288). The charred, 10oz slab carries no discernable meat flavour and is unevenly cooked with the centre parts being much rarer than the rest of the steak. Then we get to the frites, which are soggy in the centre, reminiscent of store-bought, frozen goods. For dessert, we bypass the tiramisu (what’s that doing at a French bistro?) and opt for the chocolate fondant ($75), which is dry with only a few moist crumbs in the centre. Skip this and go for a coffee.

Libertine has to work much harder if it wants to be taken as more than just another pretty new face. We do hope it picks up its game soon – after all, we’d hate to see such a beautiful venue go to waste. Dorothy So

26 Aberdeen St, Soho, 2858 2022. Mon-Fri 8am-11.30am, noon-5pm, 6pm-late & Sat-Sun 9am-5pm, 6pm-late. Dinner for two: around $700.

10 Comments Add your comment

  • Just ate there. Thought it's pretty good and lovely space. I think they may have taken your criticism on board, which is good.

    Posted by Me on February 1, 2012 at 05:23 AM
  • The place is very lovely. The review hadn't come out when I tried, our table ordered a few steak frites and they were all pretty good actually.

    Posted by hkhangout on February 2, 2012 at 03:35 PM
  • Showed up at 930am on Saturday, to an empty place. The chef refused to make an egg white omlette because he was "too busy" and the manager apologized to me for not being able to convince the chef. My 2 friends waited an hour for their food. We got our food at random times. Expect to get out of your seats to make your order because service is no where to be found.

    Posted by Waiting on February 4, 2012 at 02:25 AM
  • Ate there last night, service non-existent. Food quality ok but they "ran out" of a lot of things so I guess they basically have not stocked some of the ingredients as they don't have that many customers. Food came at different times (my order of main came in between my friends' starters and main) and their crepes tasted good but cold. None of the staff are knowledgeable of what is offered on the menu. I am amazed how bad service can ruin / affect the perception of the evening. Unless you cannot find a table at Marmite or Classified or other similar places, I would not go back. Prices are not cheap albeit not overly expensive. Bathrooms have no paper towels or even soap. I would give this place 3 months to live if they don't drastically change the service.

    Posted by Travelling Slumber on February 11, 2012 at 10:22 AM
  • Had lunch twice this week had a lovely experience both times: good, quick, nice music and people, fair price (120HKD for 2 dishes and a coffee) perfect! looking forward to having my first dinner there on Frid... Also just noticed a french manager is on post, seems really nice! :-)

    Posted by Lori on February 15, 2012 at 07:24 AM
  • First time for brunch few weeks ago - food was great and arrived fast, and the waiter was nice and accomidating. I though - great new place for a simple Sunday breakfast/brunch. Second time - two weekends ago - the apatic waitress didnt even bother to write down our order, they made a mistake in our order, wait time for at least 45 minutes, and on top of that - when we ordered dessert this also took half an hour (they forgot to process the order) so in the end we gave up. However - food was still great. Third time this morning - 7 tables and 2 waiters, both of whom were unfriendly and not helpful - when asked if I can have salad instead of tost with my eggs (even at additional charge) the response I got that they have already set menu (sounds strange....) and cant change the dish. We didnt bother to stay and left for another location. Too bad the service in Libertine is so bad that good food doesnt ompensate. Won't be back.

    Posted by HK Brunch on February 18, 2012 at 07:58 AM
  • Thought I'd update the customer reviews a bit later than everyone else as I just went 2 weeks ago. I was so disappointed as I was really looking forward to finding a great, homely French restaurant with a 'bistro' feel. They didn't provide enough bread with the rillettes and pate, when I asked for some more it took the kitchen 25 minutes to do it (is the bread frozen and needing defrosting?), but they tried to bring us our main courses before the bread had arrived! We asked for them to be taken back, which they did, but we had to wait for another 45 minutes after the starters had been cleared. I wouldn't have minded so much if the restaurant was busy, but we were only 1 out of 3 tables in there. We ended up cancelling our mains as we were so fed up of waiting. There was also a table of French people sat next to us who had the same bread problem, and also sent back the mussells as they were cold and bad.....twice! It's such a shame as some of the food is pretty good (rillettes), but it's very overpriced for the portion size and quality of service. So disappointed!

    Posted by Anon on March 20, 2012 at 02:53 AM
  • Went there for dinner last night with my dear. It seems that many people are still coming to enjoy their happy hour. So we arrived around 8 for dinner and they put us on a table in the middle the drinking and yelling crowd. I almost had to yell to speak with my friend. They advertise for their mussels that are actually not available. So we took the rillettes and paté which was not bad (the bread was just so so). Then comes the 'best' part. We waited for one hour before getting our main courses served (steak and sea bass). After complaining the waitress told us that they were quite busy tonight (3 tables dinning...) and finally when decided to cancel the dishes, she came back from the kitchen with our food. Non tasty steak and Mc Donald french fries... We didn't finished and just left after settling the bill. I'm usually not picky about food, but for this price and being French, I really expected more than Mc Donald's French fries....

    Posted by Skornjr on April 18, 2012 at 01:33 AM
  • worst place ever!!! no way the owner just copy PASTIS NEW YORK!!! wtf??? bad service, food take 30 minutes to get out of the kitchen, cockroach in the toilet, anyway, if you want to be sick go there!!!!

    Posted by matthewssuck on May 4, 2012 at 01:08 PM
  • such a waste of time as i wait 30 min to get a hot meal, which was overcooked... thought this place gonna close soon as its not working at all, never heard a good comment on this place

    Posted by matthewssuck on May 15, 2012 at 06:28 AM

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