Alasdair Nicol goes behind the old Iron Curtain to sample one of Europe’s emerging wine markets

Wines have been produced in Eastern Europe for centuries but are still yet to make a major impression on drinkers from countries outside the region. Wine-producing countries such as Hungary, Macedonia and Bulgaria make some very drinkable wines, and what is now called Georgia has been producing wines for over 9,000 years, well before Roman times.

Now, thanks to these countries entering into trade agreements and the ever-growing European Union, trade in Eastern European wines has increased steadily and there is a considerable consumer market all over Europe.

One of the reasons drinkers were deterred from Eastern European wines was the fact that no one knew what grapes the wines were made from. Grapes such as Tokaji, Rkatsiteli and Rara Neagra are indigenous to Eastern Europe, but are relatively unknown elsewhere.

Nowadays, you are just as likely to find Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot produced in these countries as the indigenous grapes.
However, if you really want to relish the flavours of centuries of winemaking, you should sample the indigenous grapes as they will give you a taste of something a little different. Here are some rare, hard to find wines from Eastern Europe that are available here. 

Mandolas Oremus Tokaji Dry 2006, Hungary ($240 from ASC Fine Wines, Unit 1804, 18/F, Leighton Centre, 77 Leighton Rd, Causeway Bay, 3923 6700; www.asc-wines.com) is a dry white wine. Many people confuse Tokaji with being a sweet wine and, in many instances, it has been left on the vine to over-ripen and make dessert wine. This wine is high in acid but very easy going. It does lack a little flavour on the palate but all told, it’s a pleasurable wine.

Hetszolo Tokaji Furmint 2006, Hungary ($108 from Vins Gallery, Citywide; www.vinsgallery.com) is made from 100 per cent Furmint, a grape commonly found in Hungary and supposedly one of the better white winemaking grapes from the country. It has great aromas in the glass and is followed up by a dry yet subtly fruity palate.

Teliani Valley Mukuzani 2005, Georgia ($450 from Solar Fine Wine, G/F, 70 Fuk Lo Tsun Rd, Kowloon City, 2716 6388) is produced from the indigenous grape Saperavi and on the whole is a pretty damn good wine. It’s very smooth on the palate and drinkable, but needs a little cured meat to bring out its full flavour.

Rousse Winery Pristis Perfect Dry Red Wine 2008, Bulgaria ($158 from Cheers, Citywide; www.pro-wins.com) surprised me. Any wine with the name “perfect” would normally be shunned but this is not bad, albeit a little acidic. It’s a strange blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Pinot Noir – although the flavour of the Pinot was largely hidden – that’s quite acceptable and a pleasant change from the norm.

Negru de Purcari 2003, Moldova ($190 from Viva Italia, Shop K3-4, UG/F, Olympian City 1, Kowloon, 2271 4103; www.viva-italia.com.hk) is a big and bold wine that has the potential to compete with Barossa Valley in terms of its body and structure. Obvious tannins mean that it would benefit from a couple of years ageing, but right now it’s a great steak wine and truly one of the best Eastern European wines I have tried.