Alasdair Nicol is California dreaming with the potent American wine

When one thinks of Zinfandel, one region in particular comes to mind – California. However, the grape is not indigenous to America, but a DNA match of a native Croatian grape and a close relative to the Primitivo grape grown in the far south-east of Italy.

Americans have perfected the wine-making techniques that make it such a popular drink around the globe. However, it’s yet to make its mark here in Hong Kong, where people are still stuck drinking the usual suspects – Bordeaux blends from France and Cabernets from Australia. 

The Zinfandel grape, not unlike Pinot Noir, is a thin-skinned variety that needs the perfect harmony of cool nights, warm days and lots of sunshine. Californian winemakers not only make red Zinfandel wines but also a slightly sweeter White Zinfandel – which is usually rose in colour. This ‘white’ version is given more time on the vines to allow for more conversion of the sugars, giving it that sweet summer style of wine we all love so much.

Wines made from the Zinfandel grape are often accused of being too high in alcohol, which they are. However, modern winemaking techniques have found ways to keep the flavours of the wine while reducing the levels of alcohol in it.

Considering the high alcohol content, they have great fruit flavours and are wonderfully easy to drink. They are complex and interesting wines that should really have more exposure on our local restaurant wine lists and on the shop shelves.

Here are some great ones that I have come across recently: 

Lamborn Family Vineyards Zinfandel 2007, California ($450 from Prime Cellar, Suite B, 16/F, Yardley Comm. Bldg, 3 Connaught Rd West, Sheung Wan, 2523 2111) is brand new to Hong Kong and is a stunner. With 15.2 per cent ABV, you may need some friends to share the bottle with, but once you’ve tried it you will be looking around for more of it pretty quickly.

Seghesio Family Vineyards Old Vine Zinfandel 2007, California ($343 from ASC Fine Wines Unit 1804, 18/F, Leighton Centre, 77 Leighton Rd, Causeway Bay, 3923 6700; www.asc-wines.com) is made by one of the oldest winemaking families in Sonoma County. It has great characters of red fruit and also a lovely smooth velvety texture on the palate. It’s very well balanced and matches most foods, but it’s also a great stand alone wine too.

Cline Ancient Vines Zinfandel 2008, California ($148 from Golden Gate Wine, Suite 1006, Tai Yau Bldg, 181 Johnston Rd, Wan Chai 2891 8181) is possibly one of the best value-for-money Zinfandels in the territory at the moment. It displays fantastic nuances of raspberry and strawberry, but has also taken some vanilla flavours from the barrel ageing process.

Grgich Hills Estate Napa Valley Zinfandel 2006, California ($348 from Montrose Fine Wines, 24/F, Wan Chai Central Bldg, 89 Lockhart Rd, Wan Chai, 2555 8877; www.montrose.com.hk) is, in my opinion, a world class wine. Classic Zinfandel flavours exude from this wine, making it a drinking pleasure. It has a little less body than other vintages due to a rather wet summer but is nonetheless excellent.

Brazin Old Vine Zinfandel 2007, California ($169 from Summergate Fine Wines, 19/F, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Rd, Wan Chai) is a full bodied Zinfandel that has more dark plum and chocolate flavours than others. It has a long finish and has an almost Shiraz-like spiciness to it, but definitely needs food when drunk.