Alasdair Nicol handpicks some gems from burgeoning wine region Ribera del Duero

Located in Spain’s northern plateau, the appellation of Ribera del Duero produces some of the Iberian Peninsula’s finest and most sought after wines. The first commercial winery laid its roots there in 1864, the now world famous Vega Sicilia.

Over time, the region has stopped producing cheap rosé wines from the locally grown Garnacha grape and has started making quality wines using the Tempranillo grape. Almost all wines from the Ribera del Duero are red – the Albilo grape is the only white grown in the area – and wineries nowadays blend Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes into the Tempranillo in much the same way as the region’s famous neighbour, Rioja.

With a Mediterranean climate, grape growers enjoy hot, sunny summers and very cold winters that allow for consistent grape growing. Seldom does the region suffer a bad vintage and the wines themselves are created to age. If you are looking for wines that you can cellar and drink way into the future, then Ribera del Duero is my recommendation.

Ribera del Duero’s wines generally have well structured tannins that allow for the ageing of the wine but also spiciness on the palate and a smooth and refined texture. Here are some great Ribera del Duero wines I have recently tried:

Vega Sicilia Unico 1970 (available from auction >$6,000) is perhaps the most sought after wine from this region. The wine still shows all the fruit and body it had when it was 20 years younger. It’s a fantastic and hard to find wine that popped up at recent Zachys and Acker, Merrall & Condit auctions held in the territory.

Flor de Pingus 2007 ($650 from Magnum Wine, Room 1229, 15-17 Shing Yip St, Kwun Tong, 2343 0750), from the second and more affordable label of its illustrious parent Pingus, is a sublime, full-bodied young wine that will mellow and change over time. It drinks beautifully now but give it another ten to 15 years and this wine will be something to behold. 

Bodegas Sancius 2004 ($250 from Lipu Industrial Ltd, 9882 9766; victor@belhk.com) is made up of 100 per cent Tempranillo, much like that from the famous Pesquera winery. The wine is, as expected, velvety on the palate but with balanced acidity and tannins that allow for a very long, smooth finish.

Campos Goticos Tempranillo Reserva 2003 (Available from Xantana Wine Society, 9A, Eton Bldg, 288 Des Voeux Rd Central, Sheung Wan, 9288 6911, price on request) first blew me away with its deep, dark colour. It has a lot of tannin and will need decanting for at least an hour before drinking. It’s yet another great wine but one, again, that could do with some ageing before drinking.

Valduero Reserva 2004 ($300 from Saveurs, 4/F, Wong’s Factory Bldg, 368-370 Sha Tsui Rd, Tsuen Wan, 2543 6339;  www.saveurs.com.hk) packs a serious punch. It is full bodied but smooth at the same time, making it a must in my books. After 30 months in oak you can taste the flavours that the barrel has imparted, but this takes nothing away from the wine. A seriously long finish on the palate leaves you contemplating what you just drank and the longer it’s left to breathe, the more subtle the flavours become.