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Below par French bistro

The design team has done a great job converting a once-stale, neon-lit bar into this airy, rustic bistro – complete with curved wooden bar, tin posters depicting French life, and a charming half-French owner who also serves his customers their food. You could sit here all day with your beverage of choice, imagining yourself in a Paris cafe.

Just don’t expect the joyful mood to continue once the food arrives. Pastis may get an A for its authentic atmosphere and classic bistro menu, but the quality of ingredients – or rather, lack thereof – is alarming. With some tips on navigating the menu however, there are some gems to be had.

First, what not to have: the salads. The mixed greens and cherry tomatoes are the same as you’d get in any mid-range Soho eatery. This restaurant could be Italian, Spanish or Belgian – the only thing differentiating the salad from the next guy’s is the French spelling on the menu. Another thing to skip are the soups. In our case, the classic leek and potato ($50). Not sure how we managed to strike out twice in one issue with this dish (see St. George review, opposite). The soup might have come from a can; certainly the broth anyway.

All around us, French voices were praising the boeuf bourguignon ($120). It turned out to consist of glorious, melt-in-the-mouth beef cheeks, stewed to destruction with mushy carrots. The sauce was lightly seasoned and completely inoffensive. This dish will do very well. At this price, you’d be forgiven for thinking it a steal – but just wait till you see the child-sized portion. Yes, French chefs like to prepare amazing food in tiny portions. But this is a bistro – so you expect to feel full after your main course. Non?

The fish of the day (barramundi) was flash-fried and unevenly cooked – mostly for too long. At $120, we should have sent it back. Instead, we filled up on the bed of mushy carrots and spinach that came with it. With plenty of stomach space to spare, we finished with the fondant au chocolat ($45). A cakey case with a gooey, oozing chocolate centre. Show me a human being who would not like this.

This place has the right bones, but needs to rethink its food quality. Otherwise, Pastis will be just another Disneyland-level eatery, trying to pass off cheap produce as authentic food, and adding to the long list of sub-par Soho dining experiences.

Angie Wong
G/F, 65 Wyndham St, Central, 2537 5702. Daily noon-10.30pm. Meal for two: around $450.