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Go with the grain

Not even the staff seem able to explain Bo-Lo’ Gne’s unusual moniker. Ask them about it and you’ll get a blank look. But it doesn’t seem to matter. Its wonderful breads are drawing queues of customers, sparking numerous blog raves and, like the latest designer handbag, are the subject of long waiting lists.

Seating about 12 people, the shop is a cosy nook on Aberdeen Street in Soho. The staff are Japanese, with mostly English and Japanese spoken inside, and this applies to the customers as well. The menu is limited: toast with jam, toast with Breyers vanilla ice cream, French toast, cinnamon toast, and fruit toast. And when the bread runs out for the day, the shop closes. It’s that simple.

A loaf, which yields about 12 thick slices, costs $105. Although several loaves might be on display, they usually have a “sold out” sign on show, so expect a two- to three-day wait.

What’s great about this place is the owners’ obsession with making a good product. They focus on one thing and do it really well. Eight layers of soft dough, with about a week’s recommended intake of butter, is folded then rolled and prepared for the morning bake. What comes out is a wonderful, buttery loaf as soft as a cloud. You can see the layers of milk, flour and butter in each bite. Toasted, the butter within melts, leaving a sheen of grease on the fingers. A smear of the lovely homemade jam (strawberry) was not necessary but a sweet addition ($30 for set).

We also had an order of banana French toast ($65, including drink). Dusted with powdered sugar, the caramelised bananas dotted around the soft toast made this an indulgent afternoon treat. The dish was light, with just enough sweetness.

Artisanal bread-making is being introduced to Hong Kong by purveyors who aren’t interested in feeding the masses. And their target market – those who are willing to pay for the craftsmanship of a good loaf – are responding in their droves. 

41 Aberdeen St, Soho, 2950 0600. Mon-Fri  8am until bread runs out, Sat-Sun 10am until bread runs out. Meal for two: around $120.