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Lardos is inconspicuously tucked into a street teeming with steamboat restaurants in Hang Hau Village. The no-frills shop front with a parking-lot view may initially, and worryingly, appear to be another local chain Steak Expert. But just beyond the door, the sight of flames licking a 36-ounce rib-steak promises a gastronomic feat for any hungry Rugby jock, and dispels any doubts that Lardos is authentic. We’re convinced it’s the only place in Hong Kong to enjoy great steak without the fuss of dressing up. 

Such unpretentiousness extends to the menu: cuts from Australian, United States, Japanese, and Argentinian cattle are simply put, well marbled and juicy.  Reputedly the owner, Henry Theil, supplies most of the five-star hotels and top clubs in town with his steak, and the price at Lardos can be less than half what you’d pay elsewhere. As a gravy, we recommend the black pepper sauce for an extra kick, and would forgo the bland béarnaise.

Among the sides, we were delighted by large, luxuriously plump New Zealand green-lipped mussels in white wine, which arrived speedily and with sauce to spare for dipping warm French bread and thick-cut steak fries. Traditional trimmings, such as the creamed spinach (overly pungent with nutmeg), mushrooms with garlic and butter, and mashed potatoes, provide solid accompaniment for the steak.  

Washing it all down with a fresh and perfectly chilled Stella Artois, we were satiated and cheery.  The unimpressive simple salad with thousand island on the side, tawdry foil wrapped butter patty, and cup of water clearly straight from the tap, were all found forgivable in a rare and surprisingly altruistic moment from a critic feeling every yia men well spent.

Meal for two: around $500 including drinks.

Ciara Tan

G/F, 4B Hang Hau Village, Tseung Kwan O, 2719 8168