The menu delights in perverting the humble burger with descriptions such as ‘Cushin’ for the Pushin’, ‘Gang Bang’ and ‘Debbie Does Dallas’. We ordered their ‘Missionary’ burger ($48), which was a straight-forward 1/3-pound patty in a toasted bun topped with mayo, tomato and romaine lettuce.

What our tasters said: “Good quality ground beef... Perfectly medium-well done... The patty’s a bit too small for the bun... a smaller bun would have been better... The lettuce and tomato could have been fresher, and they should go easier on the mayo... I hope the serving girl washed her hands between handling money at the till and adding our toppings... It’s a great patty in mediocre surroundings – kinda like a hot girl with an ugly boyfriend.”

Meat: 8/10
Bun: 7/10
Toppings: 4/10
Value: 4/10
Overall: 6/10. Something of a missed opportunity this one – a great-quality patty, well cooked, but let down by the poor standard of toppings.

Three locations. We got ours from: Shop 6, 60 Johnston Rd, Wan Chai, 2866 2060; shakembuns.com.

Ten best take-out burgers in town:
Mos Burger, Japanese Ingenuity
McDonald’s, The Market Cornerer
Burger King,By Royal Decree
Shake ’em Buns, X-Rated
Monster Burger, Creature feature
Atomic Patty, Best of LKF
Burger Republic, Independence Day
Big Bite, The chefs’ choice
Wow! Burger, Almost famous
BurgeRoom, Top of the class

Also reviewed:
Gourmet Burger Union
Freshness Burger
Triple O's
Toppings
Cul-De-Sac
Archie B's
Si Sun Fast Food

See also: The United Nations of Burger
                  The Burger Boom