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Can the MTR really have become a subterranean haven for foodies? Holly Mak and Kaorina Kuok take a ride

In Hong Kong, there is always an opportunity to snack, even on the move. But although eating and travelling might seem like an odd combination of activities, the bigger oxymoron is that the MTR offers some fabulous eateries inside its stations, while simultaneously punishing you by law for actually eating or drinking anything within its walls.

While Mong Kok is perhaps best known as an area of vice, street markets, and the highest population density in the world, its station is remarkably calm, serving up a variety of delectable treats, with choices ranging from healthy herbal concoctions to the more caloric indulgence of oven fresh pastries, enticing commuters with their sticky, sweet aroma. Those unfamiliar with Chinese herbs might be confused by the names of the teas and soups offered at Hung Fook Tong (Shop 22, 2396 0069, exit B), but while an English biology textbook is required to understand the contents of the drinks (such as Ganoderma Tea with Burdock), you can take comfort in the knowledge that the traditional Chinese medicinal ingredients have strong remedial qualities. Prices range from $14 for bottled health drinks to $40 for herbal soups. And if all of this health talk is not your cup of tea, there are some naughtier alternatives nearby: the aromatic scent of Beard Papa (Shop 11, 2392 1218, exit C) will tickle your olfactory senses from miles away. The store front is crowded by customers who go out of their way to try out the Japanese puffs, and the queues stretch out to the ticketing machines around the corner. The good ol' cream puff ($12) is the bestseller, but other favourites include the strawberry cream puff ($15) and crispy mango cream puff ($18). 

Yuen Long, known for its farm life and peaceful greenery, is the last place you'd expect to find a crowded, high-energy Dim Sum restaurant, but head into the station and you’ll find just that. Wishfully named Chinese eatery The Happiness Restaurant (Shop S26, 2827 6668, exit G) is pretty hard to miss, with its communist red awnings, garlands of flowers, and smiling hostess. Lunches typically consist of dim sum, while dinner goes banquet-style with set meals for 12 starting at $2,488. Try the glutinous rice with chicken wrapped in lotus leaf ($68), the glutinous rice with steamed crab ($78), or the more extravagant abalone ($138) or chicken shark’s fin soup for four ($298). Unlike other MTR food joints though, The Happiness Restaurant isn't just a grab-and-go type of place, it’s a meal destination in itself. Also check out Lo Hong Ka (Shop S10, 2479 9163, Exit E, H, I), where they sell prepared swallow's nest (large $788, medium $588, small $368), aloe vera ($36), and other healthy products. 

Olympic station plays gateway to one of Hong Kong's biggest malls, and home to innovative culinary creations. Stop off to visit the 39ºC Bakery (Shop 9, exit A). At first glance, it appears to be just an average bakery, displaying the usual buns and rolls, but upon closer inspection, you’ll find a single row of what looks like charred black bread rolls topped or filled with various savory treats. No, the baker did not run out of fresh bread and decide to serve you last week's stock. In fact, the darkened exterior of these baked goods are the result of much health food related research: the key ingredient is Black Carbon Powder, which isn't as strange as it sounds. According to the bakery's information board, the magic ingredient is "edible activated charcoal" mixed with "rice pulp" created by the company to produce a healthy option for carb-lovers as it "absorbs unnecessary fat". Breads start at around $8 a pop. Alternatively, Pie and Tart Specialists (Shop 7, exit C, D) sell freshly baked pies, tarts, pastries, muffins, cookies, and Western desserts, as well as freshly brewed coffee, tea, and hot and cold beverages.

As for East Tsim Sha Tsui, it is famed for being one of the more visitor-friendly districts because of its concentration of tourist hot spots, so expect no less of the MTR stations' culinary offerings. If you're in the mood for the sizzle and spice of Eastern Chinese cuisine, the Mask of Si Chuen and Beijing Restaurant(Shop S33, 2311 9233, Exit J1) will satisfy your taste buds. Brightly decorated with traditional Chinese opera masks, this eatery offers a sit-down meal of which the most popular dishes are the fish head with chilli pepper in broth ($138, level three spice) and stir-fried pig's intestine with chilli pepper ($78, level three spice). For those that prefer a less carnivorous meal, the restaurant offers many vegetarian options in the Pekinese portion of the menu. Make sure to keep a glass of water nearby, because these helpings of chili ain’t modest! And if you're mid-rush home and you suddenly remember that it's your sweetheart’s birthday, stop by Affection (Shop 18, 2735 3377, Exit K) for a bouquet of milk chocolate roses. While they might not be of Godiva standard, some credit can be given to the variety of shapes and types the chocolates come in, such as a box of dark chocolate mah jong tiles ($43/box) or a cigar-shaped white and milk chocolate mix ($33/box). 

And whether you're about to catch a flight or you’re off to Disneyland for the day, there's always time to stop for a gourmet snackat Hong Kong Station. QQ Rice and the Original Taste Workshop (Shop 42, exit D, E) both promote healthy food products, with the Original Taste Workshop specialising in medicinal soups and tea infusions with ‘original’ flavours that do not use preservatives (fish maw almond and pork lung soup ($68/20 oz) is known for soothing the lungs and preventing cancer). However, if you're in the mood for something sweeter, QQ Rice (Shop 53, 2868 4266, in-town-check in) sells rice dumplings, Taiwanese desserts, and health drinks, too.  Their speciality is a rainbow coloured range of soy milks ($9), but despite the seemingly unnatural colours, QQ Rice sticks to promoting health with low sugar, oil, and preservative contents.

Now you know where to go for a tasty snack on the go. Just don’t get caught eating any of it while you’re there…