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Bored of foie gras, caviar and lobster? Angie Wong reveals the new generation of ‘gourmet’ foods

The designer potato
Potatoes got a bad rap during the Atkin’s diet hoopla of the early Naughties. Unlike bread and pasta, which added protein compounds to make carbs more desirable, the humble, unadulterated potato remained starchy and unwanted for most of this decade. That is, until now. Spanish chefs, inspired by El Bulli’s molecular gastronomy, have been re-appreciating no nonsense dishes made with the uncomplicated potato. But forget the simple spud; chefs are looking at new designer tuber, heirloom potatoes. Some of the names to note are highland burgundy reds, yetholm gypsies, salad blue varieties and Russian bananas (you read right). The reason is taste. Mass-produced ‘taters have for a long time lacked any kind of flavour. Be honest, when have you ever had a potato without butter, sour cream, cheese, truffles, chilli, or bacon bits? These specialty potatoes offer a natural taste other than starch, some offer cooked textures other than creaminess, and others are recommended to be eaten thinly sliced and, believe it or not, raw.

Matsutake
In Japan, Matsutake mushrooms are as prized as white truffles in France. While most of the mushrooms we eat are cultivated – such as buttons, shiitakes and portobellos – these morsels are grown in the wild. (Side note: matsutake is slang for penis in Japanese, guess why). Due to over harvesting in the Japanese isles, the island nation’s supply now largely comes from the US, Canada and Mexico (with cheaper varieties from China), where they are found growing wild in evergreen forests. Due to this, they often take on a distinctive smell of pine trees and cinnamon. In Hong Kong, you can experience edible gold at D. Diamond by ordering their borlotti bean and matsutake soup with rosemary ($88). While the restaurant’s mushrooms are imported from the mainland, never miss a chance to get your hands on an Oregon Matsutake. They are, quite simply, divine.

Australian Perigord black truffles
The truffle’s unique flavour means it brings a bountiful blessing to almost any meat, vegetable or potato. Due to demand, farmers are cultivating Périgord spores, mimicking the wild environment truffles normally grow in – cool, wet winters and dry, warm summers. As the little guys only like to come out in the northern hemisphere from January to March, it was smart thinking on the part of industrial farmers and food scientists to cultivate them in the southern hemisphere – meaning fresh truffles can now be had all year round. Despite its name, Australian firm Perigord Truffles of Tasmania actually grows most of its truffles in New South Wales, in particular, the Yass Valley and Tumbarumba (the aboriginal word for the sound wild horses and kangaroos make when they gallop over hollow ground). The Four Seasons Hotel will have a special Perigord promotion during the month of July.

M9 Plus
We used to think highly of the Japanese for marbling their Kobe with beer, sake and rubdowns, but now we’re realising the reason for the luxury treatment is because Kobe cattle have no way of developing marbling naturally (i.e. no space to roam). When it comes to beef, it is not enough to be organic, grass-fed or even Wagyu anymore. Chef Aitor Olabegoya, of famed Barcelona restaurant Arola, is a well-known advocate of allowing cows to walk around, play, and generally live the good life – before dying for our indulgences.

Though the term wild beef doesn’t really exist in consumer terms, free range, ‘organic’ cows from ranches in the US have room to develop and run around, rather than live a feeder cow’s life in a stall.

The new gourmand likes his meat free range, marbled and fatty. Spoilt by selection, the cut of choice is M9 Plus graded Wagyu beef, one of the most marbled cuts you can get without calling it pure fat. Try some at the new Bo Innovation in Wan Chai’s J Residence.

Artisanal breads
Have a closer look at your bread basket the next time you’re dining out, you might notice that it’s taken a turn for the better. That’s because Hong Kong is no longer under the mercy of a few pitiful bread bakers supplying wartime-style white breads. Greg Michaud, Four Seasons’ pastry chef, would rather have only two kinds of bread that are homemade and flavourful, than six kinds that are the same as those offered in 25 other restaurants.

Also take a look at Simply Life in Festival Walk for inspiration. They produce a great crusty rye, while still offering soft milk breads to suit all taste buds. Meanwhile, the French baguette at L’atelier de Joel Robuchon is a great example of proper bread making, costing a very affordable $20. Last but not least, Bar of Soup produces one of Hong Kong’s most interesting breads in its tiny kitchen. Their So Wu bread is made with a Chinese herb believed to bring blackness to the hair.

Snail Caviar
One gastronomic delight we’ve been hearing a lot about, but are reluctant to try, is snail egg caviar. These mini pinky white pearls look great, but produce gag responses in some who taste them. Some say these salty eggs have a woody note, others say chalky. It’s proving to be a creative challenge for chefs, but is also considered the new sturgeon. Look for these pearls to start appearing on menus soon, especially at French establishments.