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Reviews of Hong Kong restaurants & bars
The Comforts
In this crazy little city, there are heartbreakers aplenty, personal space is reduced to zero, and the term “overtime” is a thing of western fantasy. It’s not a surprise that by default we turn to the one things that will always be there to comfort us: food.
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Fish Gut Congee at Sang Kee Simmered rice gruel has never tasted better than when served with a little helping of fish intestines. It’s not as scary as it sounds, just genius for die-hard congee fans. The porridge is smooth and not watered down or gluey like some congee served in this town. And, surprisingly, there is no off-putting fishy smell, just soulful feeding. ($23.) 7-9 Burd St, Sheung Wan, 2541 1099.
Claypot chicken and eel over rice at Kwan Kee
Thirty-eight dollars buys you a little piece of nirvana at Kwan Kee. The right combination of chicken, eel, oil and fire delivers what might be the best one-bowl meal ever. The fat from the meat drips down into the rice, coating every grain. The bottom of the bowl crackles the rice giving off a popcorn-like aroma. The meat is so tender it practically falls off the bone and melts into the rice. The whole concoction is pure comfort-food euphoria. ($42.) G/F, 94 Shek Yam Road, Tsing Yi, 2425 7149; or G/F, Wo Yick Building, 263 Queen’s Road West, West Point, 2803 7209.
Beef brisket in preserved bean sauce at Mak Noodle
Ask locals where to get the best beef brisket noodle soup and they will point you in the direction of Mak Noodle. The au nam is so tender it falls apart at the touch of the chopstick, and the noodles are so flavourful it is a challenge to have just one bowl. ($30.) 77 Wellington St, Central, 2854 3810.
Naengmyeon (Korean cold noodle in pear and beef broth) at Secret Garden
Secret Garden is god of many things Korean, but the one item that keeps drawing in the masses is their cold noodle in pear and beef soup meal in a bowl – good on a cold day, a warm day… in fact any day. Have it at the original location before their rumoured impending move. ($100.) Basement, Bank of America Tower, 12 Harcourt Rd, Central, 2801 7990.
Toro, sea urchin, and salmon roe chirashi at Sushi Kuu
This dish is so pretty and structured when served, it’s a shame you need to mix it all up in the bowl to eat it. But to experience the flavours and textures the chef intended, you need the right amount of fatty toro to coat the rice and a few salmon roe balls to stick to each spoonful, offering a burst of salmon juice in every bite. ($360.) 1/F, Wellington Place, 2-8 Wellington St, Central, 2971 0180.
Stuffed chicken wings at Farm House
These chicken wings are so popular they often run out before proper dinner hour even starts. This little deep-fried treats are stuffed with rice, seafood and mushrooms. The chef’s deboned them so you just have to roll up your sleeves and bite right in. Best way to insure you’ll land one of these treats is to order them upon making your reservations. $42 per wing. 1/F, A1A Plaza, 18 Hysan Ave, Causeway Bay, 2881 1331.
Pork and peashoot dumplings at Wang Fu
Few sights are more comforting than ten fresh dumplings floating around a bowl of hot broth. Mix in a little dark vinegar and chilli and you’ve got yourself a lunch to ease your troubles clean away. You have a variety of choices of handmade dumplings at Wang Fu, but we keep coming back for the pork and peashoot combination. ($40.) G/F, 98A Wellington St, Central, 2121 8006.
Spaghetti and meatballs at Il Bel Paese
This might seem a little obvious, but there are a lot of pretend western comfort foods out there, and when we find rustic Italian done properly it’s like finding an adopted Italian grandma to cook for you. Il Bel Paese does the tiny ping pong-sized meatballs minus the filler of excessive breadcrumbs and other ingredients to make it swell. The sauce is tomato-rich perfection and the premium pasta is a fitting complement. ($54.) G/F, 25 Queen’s Rd East, Wan Chai, 2804 2992.
Hainan chicken rice at Sergeant Chicken Rice
The Singaporeans call Hainan chicken rice their national dish and some of the best examples on offer in the Lion City are served in massive food halls. Hong Kong, it seems, is no different, as this greasy favourite can be found in the food court at City Plaza. Where else will you see lines of tourists lining up get into a shop ( Louis Vuitton aside)? Believe the hype: this chicken rice is that good. The accompanying soup might be served in a flimsy plastic bowl and you will have to struggle across the packed food hall with a plastic tray, but the payoff is worth it. Food Republic, City Plaza, Taikoo Shing, no phone.
Baked pork chop rice with snail and mushroom sauce at Tai Ping Koon Restaurant
One of the oldest restaurants in Hong Kong (it opened in 1860) also serves one of the most soul-warming meals around. There’s something about piping hot thick mushroom gravy dotted with creamy snails, blanketing an oh-so-tender piece of battered pork cutlet, gently placed on a bed of fluffy egg fried rice ($120). It was so tasty we couldn’t wait for it to cool down – we still have the mouth blisters to prove it. The set meal comes with borscht soup and the dessert of the day. 40 Granville Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721 3559.
Xiao Long Bao at Din Tai Fung
The last time we saw lines like this was outside Crystal Jade when the xiao long bao chain was opening up shops around town faster than 7-Eleven. This time it’s the turn of Taiwanese chain Din Tai Fung. Their xiao long bao is steamed on round cloth instead of julienned cabbage to insure you don’t break the soupy package when airlifting them out of the basket and straight into your mouth. The rest is a creamy pork-flavoured fantasy. $45 for a steam of six dumplings. 3/F, Silvercord, 20 Canton Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2730 6928.
Vegan lunch buffet at Khana Khazana
It’s very difficult to convince carnivores to go vegetarian, even if it is only for one meal. But even the most ardent meat-eater won’t complain they didn’t get their fill here. This is one of the few kitchens in Hong Kong to have no animal products (apart from the paneer cheese, which we’ll turn a blind eye to). None of their pots or pans has touched a piece of meat – they are absolute purists. Before heading over, make sure they’ve got broccoli tandoori on offer. Their oven-baked homemade paneer dipped in spicy curry is equally reconmmended, As is their alu gopi (potatoes and cauliflower). $88 per person for the lunch buffet. 1/F, Dannies House, 20 Luard Rd, Wan Chai, 2520 5308.
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