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Reviews of Hong Kong restaurants & bars
The Immigrants
Hong Kong is a gateway city, with blood lines extending way beyond the Far East. With the migrants who have arrived here have come customs, fabrics, cures – and recipes. Here are some of our favourites.
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Borscht at Tiffany Restaurant
There may be few left, but Russians used to be one of Hong Kong’s most prominent expatriate groups. In the late 1930s, the Royal Hong Kong Police Force’s European officers were around 15 per cent Russian, though they were paid significantly less than other Europeans. The British in particular saw them as ‘poor whites’, and many took menial jobs, some in kitchens. Though perogies and pirozhiki never quite stuck, beef stroganoff and borscht soup have made their way into Hong Kong culinary history. The Ruby restaurant (1966-1991) served their famous Russian borscht (vinegary to the slurp and sweet to the mouth) until they went public, sold out to Japanese buyers in the 1980s, and then shortly folded. Gutted, one of the original owners grabbed the staff and the recipes, and opened Tiffany’s, an almost identical remake of the Ruby. Even their plates are retro. Their shop near Prince Edward MTR still serves the very same borscht recipe as the days when Russian police officers patrolled the nearby streets. ($30.) 148 Prince Edward Rd West, Prince Edward, Kowloon, 2380 8029.
Spicy fried curry crab at Cambo Thai
In the 1960s and 1970s, Kowloon City was dubbed ‘Little Chiang Mai’, for its abundance of tasty Thai restaurants, and alleged links with the international drug trade. According to legend, the restaurants set up shop on the streets closest to Kai Tak airport, in order to collect the rice canvas bags of illegal substances thrown over the airport’s high fences. Today, some of the most authentic Thai meals in town are found at in this old Kowloon neighborhood. One to note is Cambo Thai, for their spicy fried curry crab. Add it to your 2008 must-try list. $120 for a small plate, $210 for the large. G/F, 15 Nga Tsin Long Rd, Kowloon City, 2716 7318.
Halal beef burgers at Islam Foods
Arriving in the 19th century, the first Muslims to settle in Hong Kong were mainly Chinese traders whose forefathers had converted to Islam, and South Asian soldiers brought in by the British. Today, there are about 70,000 Muslims in Hong Kong, mainly immigrants and their descendents from South and Southeast Asia. There are many restaurants catering to their religious dining requirements, but one stands out above all others. Islam Foods has become a bad habit for many, a place where people wait in line for their halal beef burger fix. But it’s not just for Muslims. Hong Kong’s rich and famous come from all corners of the city for these gems. It’s a small shop and you might easily walk by, but the parade of Rolls-Royce and Mercedes parked outside are a surefire indicator you’ve arrived. ($20.) G/F, 1 Lung Kong Rd, Kowloon City, 2382 2822.
Egg tarts at Honolulu Cafe
Ever wonder how the ubiquitous egg tart came to be? Well, the short crust pastry exterior has its origins in French kitchens, while the creamy egg custard filling is very English. But, unlike the French flakey crust, ours is made with lard, not butter; and unlike the English custard, ours is made with evaporated milk – not cream or fresh milk. Egg tarts first appeared on dim sum menus in the 1940s and ’50s, when it was a sign of classand privilege to eat something so foreign. Over the years the associations dropped, and today egg tarts are something foreigners eat to be closer to Hong Kong. For recommendations, we could’ve easily gone with fei pang’s (Chris Patten) favorite, Tai Chong Bakery, but instead, we’ve gone one better. The oddly named Honolulu Café has been serving up their authentically old-fashioned creamy-custardy egg tarts for many, many moons. Best to eat it over a bin or plate – the flakey crust tends to get everywhere. $5 per egg tart. G/F, 178 Hennessey Rd, Wan Chai, 2575 1823.
Baked Alaska at Jimmy’s Kitchen
Everyone from the Norwegians to the French have laid claim to the Baked Alaska. However, the name is defiantly American. The Baked Alaska was named by famous New York eatery Delmonico’s in 1876, to honour the newly acquired northern territory. In Hong Kong, Jimmy’s Kitchen added the Baked Alaska to its menu more than 60 years ago. During a period when racial discrimination was still common, Jimmy’s offered a place where locals and foreigners alike could enjoy this strange and wonderful dessert. Although it seems dated today, the dessert is making a comeback. The Jimmy’s Kitchen version is very sharable (the kitchen says it feeds two, but we think six). Be sure to order it with your mains, as it takes a while for them to assemble it. ($116.) G/F, B/F, 1-3 Wyndham St, Central, 2526 5293.
Vietnamese chicken curry at Saigon Pho
In the mid-1970s, Vietnam was in the midst of war. A humanitarian policy from the Hong Kong government allowed ethnic Chinese Vietnamese to stay here in refugee camps, and later settle. With them came the use of fresh mint, fragrant pho, and French-colonial drip coffees sweetened with condensed milk. Perhaps one of the greatest flavours came in the form of the Vietnamese curry, which cha chaan tengs were quick to add to their menus. The mild curry is sweet and distinctive Asian, with a lemongrass, ginger, and coriander base. The characteristics that set this curry apart from others (Indian, Malaysian, Thai) is the fresh French bread, not rice, used to soak up the heavenly-tasting gravy. Hot buttered baguettes are served straight out of the oven per order at Saigon Pho. ($40.) G/F, 319 Hennessy Rd, Wan Chai/Causeway Bay, 2833 6833.
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