Foods of desire
The Fatty
Let’s face it: what makes food so good is the bad stuff. These are our favourite heartclogging, pants-busting, love-handle loving meals of this year.
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Suckling pig at M at the Fringe What can we say? We are suckers for pork fat, even if it has fallen out of vogue somewhat. There is no better combination of flavours and textures than a crispy, blistered pork skin covering a sliver of full animal fat, and a tender salty chunk of pork so smooth it makes you want to cry with joy. We’re getting teary at the mere thought ($252). 2 Lower Albert Rd, Central, 2877 4000.
Braised Wagyu oxtail burger at Duke’s Burger
There was a burger war last year to see who could sell the most extrvagent burger. The InterContential was boasting a $1,288 Waygu and toro burger, Harlan’s was selling out of their “HG” Burger with smoked gouda, crispy bacon and white truffle oil with a side of salt and blue-cheese dip ($198), and to this day there is a weekly table reserved for eight bankers and eight burgers ($175 each) at the Lobby Lounge at the Four Seasons. But it’s the Waygu oxtail version ($220) at Duke’s that we’re choosing as our burger to eat in 2008. They just do simple things perfectly: premium meat on a premium bun with textbook thickcut fries. G/F, 5 Staunton St, Soho, 2526 7062.
Smoked duck breast at V Best Teahouse
When the right combination of saltiness, crispiness, tenderness, fat and umami come together, you’ve got a little piece of culinary magic. The smoked duck ($85) at V Best is damn near perfection on a plate. Make sure you order a bowl of rice to soak up a bit of the juice. G/F, 17 Elgin St, Central, 3104 0890.
‘OP’ rib-eye at Lardos Steak House
When the guy who distributes steaks to five-star hotels around town opens up his own restaurant, people take notice. This humble eatery is tucked away on a small Hang Hau Village block known more for causal cha chaan tengs than fine dining. If you are with someone you don’t mind crossing forks with, share the 36oz OP rib-eye steak ($398; ‘OP’ stands for ‘often prepared’) flamed to juicy perfection [medium-rare should be the de rigueur choice]. Best bit: you’ll pay a fraction of the price for the same cut of meat you’ll find at the territory’s top tables. 4B Hang Hau Village, Tseung Kwan O, 2719 8168.
Braised pork ribs in red sauce at Zhong Guo Song
Visualise a cube of tender pork sparerib sliding right off the bone. Envisage the thinnest layer of melting fat blanketing the meat during its slow braising in a well seasoned clay pot. Picture it coated with a velvety red sauce made with rice wine vinegar, delivering an incredible blend of sweet and sour. Now imagine sampling it just a stone’s throw from Lan Kwai Fong ($51). G/F, 6 Wo On Lane, Central, 2810 4040.
Three cuts of fatty toro from Kenjo’s
(1) Reserve a spot at the sushi counter and ask to be seated by Master Chef Kenjo. (2) Show up on time or your seat will be given to another eager diner. (3) Ask for, in this order: ahi-toro ($40 per piece), chu-toro ($55 per piece), and o-toro ($65 per piece). (4) Meet culinary euphoria (5) Offer the chef a swig of sake for his great efforts in flying the tastiest piece of fish on Earth to your plate. G/F, 30 Minden Ave, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2369 8307.
Raw beef with Asian pears at Sam Mok Korean Restaurant
Forget the bulgogi, the kalbi, jap chae, and all the rest. Ask for the one thing that is not (yet) on the menu and the owners will smile warmly. The raw beef with diced Asian pears and egg yolk ($110) is unlike any steak tartar you’ve ever tasted. The acidic sweetness of the pears tenderises the meat and the yolk delicately coats every piece. Don’t be surprised at first bite if the meat is full of ice crystals: it’s suppose to be eaten this way. 2/F, Mass Resources Development Bldg, 12-16 Humphrey’s Ave, 2721 8970.
Roasted bone marrow at The Pawn
If the Press Room grabbed their inspiration from New York’s Balthazar, then The Pawn has done the same with New York’s Blue Ribbon Brasserie (famous for being a late-night chef’s hangout). Blue Ribbon’s signature dish – roasted bone marrow with salt and parsley salad ($75) – is perfectly mimicked here. The portions are generous, and it is a very sharable starter if you don’t want to suck the fatty (but divine) marrow out of three oxtails by yourself. Note: Ask for some toast points to spread the marrow if the idea of eating it straight from the bone makes you squeamish. 62 Johnston Rd, Wan Chai 2866 3444.
Hakka-style pig knuckle at Kwan Kee Pork Knuckle Noodles
Food bloggers love the pig knuckles here at Kwan Kee, perhaps because there are so few dishes you can gnaw in public these days and not look stupid. The soup is tasty, the salty knuckles are gelatinous goodness, and the noodles fill you up cheaply. The addition of chilli oil and fish sauce only adds to the euphoria. $20 for a small bowl, $24 for a large bowl. G/F, 5 Luen Cheong St, Luen Wo Market, Fan Ling, New Territories, 2675 6382.
BBQ ‘chuck wagon’ at Anthony’s Ranch
Make no mistake; this is no Chineseinterpretation of Western food. This is real Texan barbeque, where apples, pears, maple and oak smoke your meats. We suggest you gather a few friends – preferably bring along a Texan to walk you through the menu – and order the mother of all fatty meals: the chuck wagon. This is a sampling of everything they throw on the barbie: full ribs, whole chicken, and brisket ($488). All this includes coleslaw, potato salad, beans and corn bread. G/F, 28 Yi Chun St, Sai Kung, 2791 6113.
Braised pork belly with preserved vegetables at Chuen Cheung Kui
This famous Hakka restaurant serves the smoothest, fattiest, salty pork belly ($68). The dish comes out in a big mound, with slices of belly fanned out over a pile of preserved Chinese greens. The meat is braised in sweet soy, and the fat flavours the meat for hours in the clay pot. This, and a bowl of white rice, and we’re in fatty heaven. 7/F & 8/F, 108-120 Percival St, Causeway Bay, 2577 3833.
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