Restaurants & Bars

Some folks, New Yorkers especially, take their bagels seriously. Dead seriously. Follow that link to read a primer on what characteristics are required to even be in the conversation for the best bagel in New York, let alone anywhere else.

If you have more time on your hands read this amazingly exhaustive book on the fantastic bread product that is the bagel. Who knew?

The reason I mention all this is because of a recent store I ate at in Taikoo Place recently: Yo Bago. (As an aside, the working stiffs out in this part of town have an amazing array of eats to choose from in the immediate area, covering just about every continent and ethnic group.)

Yo Bago does a commendable job of representing the sandwich contingent by offering a large lunch at a low price point. They offer numerous types of bagels and cream cheese, but the real value is to be found in the nearly 20 bagel sandwiches.

I had the Rio Bauru, which consisted of mozzarella, pastrami and fresh veggies. I chose an onion bagel. For 36 bones it’s a great deal and better than your average plastic-wrapped sandwich.

I suppose I’d be remiss if I didn’t comment on the actual bagel itself. It’s good but not great. It reminds me more of actual regular bread and is missing that yeasty flavour and outer crunch that leads to a soft interior. It’s fresh and care has been given to it, but it’s just missing that 'wow' factor, which is surprising because supposedly the bagels are boiled, the proper treatment for a purist.

The overall effect of the sandwich is that it is more than the sum of its parts -- and that sum is worth checking out of you’re in the hood. Also they serve Tim Horton’s coffee, and we know what that means to you crazy Canadians out there.

80 Pan Hoi St, 2561-7700.
 

I’d discovered pho long before my visit to Hanoi last Christmas. It was quite a revelation, though, to see just how much this dish is actually revered. From kettles boiling on street corners to proper sit-down restaurants, ask 100 different people for their favourite haunt and you'll receive 100 different answers.

The bottom line is no matter what direction you’re steered the result is usually like finding a pot of gold at the end of a rainbow. The pot will include a soup base that looks so simple but is so complex, with fresh and fragrant herbs, and slices of tender beef. Add a crusty baguette on the side for dipping and all is well.

While the atmosphere and value might not be quite the same, plenty of places in Hong Kong offer a good, if not great, pho experience. Pho 26 is in the great category.

Mobbed since it opened, the place kicks out a great bowl for $32. They pile on the herbs to the point that you almost can’t see the soup. I also like that the bowl includes plenty of sliced white onion.

Service is efficient, considering a line usually forms at lunch. I would suggest going at off-peak hours for a more enjoyable experience. I would also throw in a pork chop bun for good measure.

My last few visits I’ve been tempted by the tomato-based broth but haven’t tried it yet. I’ll report back when I do.

Shop 3, 2 Landale St, Wan Chai .

As any drunken lout knows, finding meatopia at a late hour in this town isn’t difficult. Many local Chinese joints stay open until the wee hours and you can happily stuff yourself on all kinds of pig product. More often than not, though, we go with the fast and familiar, two-handing a scrumptious kebab in a murderous frenzy at that venerable institution, Ebeneezers.

I’m a fan, but recently my allegiances have jumped ship to Istanbul Express for not only kebabs but other similar items as well. The competing establishments sit right on top of each other on Lockhart Road in Wan Chai (and there are two branches in Tsim Sha Tsui: 1 Hart Avenue, and 34A Lock Rd).

I almost never say no to the Adana kebab. Running $68, it’s more expensive than a regular kebab but better and comes with chips or rice and a salad to boot. It is essentially a long charcoal grilled minced meat patty, in this case consisting of lamb. The meat has a nice crunchy char on the outside while the meat is flavourful and moist on the inside.

The place also has three incredible sauces (garlic, garlic chilli, and mint yoghurt) tableside that you can drown the entire plate in. While I think the portions may have become a touch smaller in the past year, the quality ingredients and staff have remained stellar.

G/F, 66 Lockhart Rd, Wan Chai.

When you’re searching for what some people consider an eclectic item, it makes it a lot more satisfying if you have to do a little work to find it. That’s why I have no address or name for you today (and it's also because I don’t read Chinese). So, just head down Tai Yuen Street off of Johnston Road (it’s the market street selling stuff you probably don’t need) and about half way down on the right you'll find a small shop with some counter seating slinging bowls of fabulous snake soup. You’ll know you're there when you see the cartoonish signs of snakes and turtles on the storefront.

Two sizes are served, the smallest bowl being around $20 but still extremely filling. It’s a thick base with mushrooms strewn throughout and loads of thick pieces of snake meat. Piping hot and perfect for the recent cold spell.

Don’t be turned off by snake. It’s tasty, and lean. In fact, don’t be turned off by anything. One of the benefits of living in Asia is we get to try a variety of wonderful and exotic cuisines, whether it be grasshoppers in Bangkok, horse sashimi in Tokyo, or balut in Manila (ok, that last one was mentally tough -- just Google it).

The point here is that some of these items are delicious, but they require you to exercise mind over matter. Many of us love chicken wings, whether deep fried or covered in hot sauce. Have you ever really pulled apart and examined a chicken wing? It’s not that appealing.

Just remember: someone had to eat the first oyster. Might as well have been you.

Tai Yuen Street, Wan Chai

Looks can be deceiving, and while this bowl of grayish matter doesn’t look like much, a couple of bites in you’ll be a fan.

I’m not quite sure why westerners aren’t bigger proponents of congee. Maybe it’s the texture or the unfamiliarity, but for $13 it’s filling and flavorful. It reminds me of Malt-O-Meal, a type of breakfast gruel consumed in the US. That version sure doesn’t have tasty bits of pork and fresh fish, with the occasional stray bone adding to the authenticity.

It’s hearty and more than once has replaced McDonald’s as my go to hangover cure.

Most of all, I love the setting. Down an alleyway strewn with dai pai dongs, you really feel like you’re in Asia. On nearly every occasion I’ve eaten here, I’ve been the only gweilo in the crowd.

At lunch, they set up tables outside and you can take in a little sunshine while dodging the stray cats that run by. Nothing like free entertainment. The side dishes are quite good as well, especially the moist turnip cake. It’s huge and cheap (about $6). Add in ice-cold oversized beers that they nearly give away and it reminds you that, if you look hard enough, great value is to be found in nearly every city in the world.

G/F, 82 Stanley St, Central

This Mexican joint is right next door to the office, and if I had my way I’d eat here every day. (More non-Wan Chai stuff coming soon, promise)

The reality is that the set lunch is a bit pricey -- not for what you get, but for my weekly lunch budget. In general, I try to stick to around $50 a day for lunch, but if I’m feeling hungover I can talk myself into anything.

The chicken fajitas here will run you about $100, but that includes soup or salad and a beverage. The soup is always interesting. The other day when I visited it was a silky cauliflower soup. The fajitas are huge and include four or five tortillas, sizzling chicken with peppers and onions, and guacamole, salsa, and sour cream. It’s enough for two but I powered it all down. The chicken has a nice grilled flavour and remains moist. For a touch less cash, the other set options usually include a wrap, chilli, or enchiladas of some sort.

There are also great beer specials at lunch, but don’t tell your boss! 

Coyote, 114-120 Lockhart Rd, Wan Chai.

I’ve been accused of many things in my life, some not so flattering. Being a huge pizza snob can be added to the list.

With NYC credentials, I like to think I know a little bit about the round disc of love. The bottom line is that Hong Kong is a bad pizza town. I’d say 'serviceable' would be an apt description.

You have your fast food pies and a few other joints that are making a concerted effort at kicking out something the folks in Naples wouldn’t cringe at. Peak Bar is one of them. They have a brick oven and one of the best people-watching spots in Hong Kong.

I recently had a salami and ham with 'shrooms and green pepper for $120 that easily fed two. The crust is somewhere between thick and thin and has a bit of a cornmeal kick. It came adorned with a handful of rocket and they have a amazing chili oil that adds an extra kick.

They offer close to 20 different options. With decent tunes and a huge beer list, I can’t think of a much better place to waste away a Saturday afternoon.

9-13 Shelley St, SoHo, Central.

It can be pretty annoying when you can’t afford the finer things in life -- especially when the finer thing is a bloody steak.

Veteran diners know that steakhouses aren’t always the cheapest option, and are usually reserved for a special occasion. Any veteran diner also knows the best way to take advantage of a kitchen they might not be able to regularly afford is to go at lunch when prices are more reasonable.

This is why we recently dined at Bistecca for lunch and had a great meal at a reasonable price (and felt like one of the cool kids).

Bistecca has received rave reviews for its dinner, but it was packed at lunch as well -- and for good reason. You can choose the antipasti buffet for $88, or the buffet with panini, pasta or grill. The prices respectively are $118, $138, and $168.

Being a sucker for meatloaf (and even more so if it’s between two pieces of bread), I chose the panini. It was huge, the meatloaf moist, and it was topped with provolone. Meaty cheesy goodness.

Oh, did we mention the buffet? Chickpeas, mushrooms, peppers, eggplant, beets, cold cuts, and hunks of parmesan -- this isn’t even the whole line-up. Throw in a selection of desserts and you’re looking at one of the better lunch deals in town.

Bistecca, 2/F, 15-16 Lan Kwai Fong, Central

Perpetually packed at lunch and also for its all you-can-eat dinner buffet, this Korean joint is a great find. You could easily walk right past it.

Housed in a building with a few other restaurants and a kitchen supply store, don’t be put off by the jammed elevator to the second floor or surly service. For under $50, you get a large portion of protein and all the usual Korean accompaniments. Also included is soup and dessert.

Last visit we opted for the beef, which was tender and flavorful, served in sweet-tasting gravy. The vegetables on the side are crisp and cold and plentiful. No reason not to leave here stuffed. The loud and boisterous atmosphere is no problem, but the crazy-cold AC is. Bring a sweater and take advantage of the flowing hot tea.

New Korean BBQ Restaurant, 2/F, 175 Lockhart Rd, Wan Chai.

Most people refer to Thai Hut as a hole-in-the-wall. I usually associate a hole-in-the-wall with a dive -- but this place is far from that. Sure, it keeps late hours in a shady part of town, but last time I was in I took a look around. The place is spotless and the staff beyond friendly. 

The authentic Thai dishes are laid out in gleaming white dishes, as if their makers are proud of them. Things aren’t haphazardly strewn about. The products for cooking at home are aligned perfectly on the counter. 

Most people know about the skewers, but I usually opt for one of the curries. They don’t lay off the heat just because you’re a Westerner, and it’s a good sized portion. Salads have always been quite fresh as well. Lunch can be tough as the place is the size of a shoebox, but takeaway works just as well.

I’ve always wanted to try the deep-fried whole fish, but I'm yet to pluck up the courage...

Thai Hut, G/F, 87-91 Luard Rd, Wan Chai. Penang Curry: $52.