With all the nooks and crannies in Hong Kong, it’s not surprising there is a plethora of dining speakeasies scattered around town. They exist in just about every neighborhood and at every price point. They’re a great place to take visitors, especially when you lead them down what is usually a shady hallway in a nondescript building. It’s always fun to see the uneasiness in their eyes, an uneasiness that changes to pleasure once they sit down to the tasty and inexpensive food.

Mama Chau’s meets the definition of a speakeasy in regards to the setting and the food. The surprising thing is the ramshackle building sits right next to Al’s Diner in the middle of Lan Kwai Fong. Take the rickety elevator to the 5th floor and you’re more or less in someone’s living room. It’s great to get into an elevator with a bunch of people and only press one button as everyone is going to the same place.  Mama Chau’s has about 15 tables and draws a large lunch crowd. Calling ahead might not be a bad idea.

True to its name, the food comes out fiery hot and happily isn't toned down for Westerners. The lunch menu features about 15 items. They range from chicken and beef to more exciting items like sliced pig ear. It’s a festive atmosphere as the local office workers pass dishes back and forth. The dishes are made for sharing and could pass as Chinese tapas.

I opted for the wontons in spicy chilli oil, marinated cucumbers, and spicy chili chicken. The wontons were piping hot and came five to an order, the cucumbers had ample crunch, and the chicken was fork tender and covered in spicy chili. I was expecting to have to eat around bones in the chicken but each morsel was flesh only and maintained its flavour. Must have been all the chili oil. People around me were slurping noodles with spare ribs, although the chicken looked like one of the more popular items.

At $20, that was the the most expensive dish I ordered, and with a soda the bill came to $65. This place is hidden and once you discover it you may want it to remain that way.

5B, Winner Building, 37 D'Aguilar St, Lan Kwai Fong.