While Coloane village isn’t the most obvious choice for a weekend escape in Macau, it’s a downright breath of fresh air when compared to the garish lights of the city’s casinos. Aside from being home to the famous Fernando’s, the village can also draw upon proximity to Hac Sa Beach and a sleepy pace of life as its key selling points. The O Restaurante Espaço Lisboa should be added to the list of attractions.

Secreted down a narrow alley off Coloane’s quiet main street, the Espaço Lisboa, housed in a refurbished old Chinese house, exudes a true feel of Portugal in China. Inside the two-story restaurant, white stuccoed walls, dark wood beams, pink curtains and a narrow staircase all set a comfortable homey tone, which is given a romantic tinge by slightly-dimmed lighting. Lucky diners (and early-bookers) get a seat on the small covered veranda.

The décor, folk music, and complimentary crusty bread and olives, all tell you this is a traditional Portuguese restaurant – but given the setting, it’s no surprise that Macanese African Chicken is the signature dish. Served on the bone in a rich red sauce with coconut shavings, it takes more than a few cross-cultural liberties. Also a little on the oily side, the dish isn’t as good as the fried Macau sole, a recent addition to the menu that comes topped with a long slice of banana and soft, boiled potatoes. Lightly fried and served with tangy sauce, the sole’s a winner.

Not to be easily passed over, either, is the sautéed clams starter, prepared with plenty of garlic and butter so as to provide the perfect sop juice for that bread you got at the start of your meal. The clams are flown in from Vietnam, where the water is apparently cleaner and the clams fatter than in Macau.

Other items on the menu range from steaks to seafood, to a small handful of token vegetarian dishes, service is attentive but not over-friendly, and the recommendations (our waiters suggested we try the chicken and the clams) are solid. Wash it all down with sangria, served in a ceramic jug, and you can really breathe easy. 

Rua das Gaivotas No. 8 R/C, Coloane Village, Macau, (853) 2888 2226. Meal for two: around $500.

First published September 2008