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Eat

The old: Bukhara
Former US president Bill Clinton says it’s one of his favourite restaurants and, in this case, he’s probably telling the truth. Standard orders of Northwest Frontier fare include tandoori jhinga and barra kababs. Besides the famous, buttery dal bukhara, the luscious creamy raita is a surprise hit. ITC Maurya, Sardar Patel Marg, Chanakyapuri, +91 2611 2233; www.itcwelcomgroup.in/hotels/itcmaurya.aspx.

The new: Indian Accent
Owner Rohit Khattar’s outlets in London (Tamarai and Sitaaray among them) have influenced the internationally inflected Indian food at this cosy-but-elegant restaurant in the boutique Manor Hotel. There’s an attached bar and a verandah overlooking the lawn. The top-notch waiters guide you through a choice wine list and a concise but playful menu. The backbone of the cuisine is regional Indian food (from Kerala to Kashmir), but the spicing and presentation are completely global. Don’t miss the foie gras-stuffed galawat: soft minced meat kababs with morsels of foie gras inside and a drizzle of strawberry and green chilli chutney. Manor Hotel, 77 Friends Colony West, +91 2692 5151; www.themanordelhi.com.

Sleep

The old: The Imperial
This Janpath beauty opened in 1931. It is located in the heart of town, just off Connaught Place. The rooms are enormous, and look out on to the parks and gardens that surround this property. The restaurants are great, with Spice Route being easily the most beautiful eating venue in Delhi. But that isn’t all: check out the vintage cars as you drive in, the floral arrangements on every floor, the art that lines the walls... If it wasn’t a gorgeous hotel, this could easily be a museum. Even if you don’t stay here, make time for a drink at the Patiala Peg bar, or even just a coffee on the veranda, between browsing through the Janpath stalls. Janpath, +91 2334 1234;
www.theimperialindia.com.

The new: Hotel Broadway
This place on the edge of the old city certainly isn’t the Imperial, but retains its own charm. Built in 1956, it’s a throwback to a time when the split between New and old Delhi wasn’t quite as pronounced as it is today. A few rooms were recently refurbished in what can only be described as a bazaar-kitsch style by Catherine Lévy of Tsé & Tsé Associées of Paris. Although painfully hip, the rooms are still comfy. There are a couple of bona fide Delhi classics on the bottom floors, as well: the Bollywood villain-themed bar, Thugs, is one of the few places in the old city where you can get a drink. Grub is courtesy of Chor Bizarre, an Indian restaurant with an accent on authentic Kashmiri food. The Sunday book bazaar, which starts close by, is worth a weekend trip in itself. 4/15A Asaf Ali Road, +91 2327 3821; www.hotelbroadwaydelhi.com.

Do

The old: NGMA
The National Gallery of Modern Art was opened in 1954 to house visual and sculptural works from the 1850s onwards. The gallery houses some of the finest works by modern Indian artists, including Vivan Sundaram, MF Husain, FN Souza, photographer Raghu Rai, Subodh Gupta, Arpana Caur and some international artists. While the permanent collection is rotated occasionally, the best works – including a lovely collection of Amrita Sher-Gil’s portraits – are always on view. For anyone interested in a survey of the development of Indian art and a quick view of their ‘old masters’, this is a must-see. National Gallery of Modern Art, Jaipur House, India Gate, +91 2338 6111; ngmaindia.gov.in.

The new: JAPA Arts India Tour
Home to some of the most cutting-edge galleries in the country, Delhi can be overwhelming for art lovers, especially if they’ve just flown in. That’s where this tour comes in. This recently-launched initiative – conceptualised by highly regarded local curator Arvind Vijaymohan – is a customised experience that includes visits to artists’ studios, residency programmes, museums and leading galleries. The organisers also conduct interactive sessions with artists, collectors and curators. Art hung on a wall? Forget about it. www.japaarts.in.

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