Eat
The Old: Trishna
At Trishna, lowbrow lunch-hole for local executives before it turned touristy in the 1990s, the seafood is always fresh, the crab always too big for one person and the adjacent table always too close for comfort. Everyone orders their crab in butter-garlic sauce, eating with their hands, dripping all over the table and feeling thankful they tucked their napkins under their chins. Trishna has a vegetarian menu, but it’s been MIA for years.Trishna, Sai Baba Marg, near Commerce House and Rhythm House, Kala Ghoda, Fort, +91 2261 4991.

The New: Blue Frog
You don’t visit the Frog to eat, you go there to catch the live music, admire the futuristic décor, watch pretty people flirt with the DJ and hobnob with rich culturati with overpriced cocktails. The grub is pleasant, though unmemorable, relying much on styling and imported ingredients to keep pace with its surroundings. But here, it’s merely something to keep the tables company. Blue Frog, Mathuradas Mill Compound, Tulsi Pipe Road, Lower Parel, +91 4033 2300; www.bluefrog.co.in.

Sleep
The Old: The Taj Mahal Palace and Tower
A grand old lady among city hotels, the Taj hasn’t lost its charm to time, competitors or even terror attacks. Whether you check in to the old building or the new, you’ll see crystal chandeliers, Indian art’s finest gems, staff that treats you like royalty and a view that hasn’t changed in 106 years. It will be a few months before the famed bell-tower suite is ready for use again, but in the meantime a Louis Vuitton shop, local boutiques and jewellery showrooms at the arcade are great retail therapy.

The New: The Four Seasons Mumbai
Rising out of a slum, its gleaming exteriors giving the neighbours an edifice complex, Mumbai’s Four Seasons is the brick-and-mortar embodiment of the new Mumbai. It’s big, brash and something of an upstart, with its high ceilings, speedy service and India’s only chef licensed to cut the poisonous puffer fish fugu, in its Chinese restaurant. It doesn’t matter which room you pick, a construction site will be part of the view outside. That’s the new Mumbai.

Do
The Old: Heritage Walk
Mumbai’s business district doubles up as its heritage mile and triples up as its tourist trap. So you may have to weave through the work crowd to take in the architectural details on a gothic building here and a neo-classical one just opposite. But it’s all well restored, thanks to an active Heritage Committee. Mumbai’s most popular sights, the Gateway of India, CST railway station and the Rajabai Clock Tower are all within walking distance of each other.

The New: Dharavi Slum Tour
Find out for yourself if Danny Boyle and his two musketeers got it right in 2009’s Oscar-hoarding ‘Slumdog Millionaire’. The tour covers some of the most interesting parts of the city’s largest slum. It visits a recycling centre, where plastic is sorted and cleaned by hand; a potter’s quarter, where artisans bake clay into pots and lamps; and the leather workshops that supply to Paris designers. Every part of Dharavi smells different, something not even Boyle can capture.

For more information, see Time Out Mumbai.

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