Eat

The old: Verre
For years, Gordon Ramsay’s Dubai outpost ruled the Dubai fine dining scene. His pork belly and apple turnover were the gastronomic last word; his simple décor the ultimate in style. If you’re the sort who likes (rather stiff) restaurants so hushed you can hear cutlery clinking at tables across the room, get thee to Verre. Hilton Dubai Creek, Baniyas Rd, +971 4 212 7551; www.gordonramsay.com/dubai.

The new: Karma Kafe
Open just a few months, the alarmingly alliterated Karma Kafe was brought to Dubai by the folk behind international chilled-out chain Buddha Bar. You can tell. It uses the same formula: dim lighting, stunning décor, ethno-beats and exquisite dining and drinks, and looks set to become the place to see and be seen (if you can make anyone out in that dim lighting, that is). Grosvener House, West Marina Beach by Le Méridien, Sheikh Zayed Road, +971 4 399 8888; www.buddha-bar.com.

Sleep

The old: Burj Al Arab
Dubai is so synonymous with the sail-shaped hotel that if one day it was suddenly helicoptered off somewhere we doubt residents would recognise their city anymore. Entering the ten-year-old iconic building after driving on to its private island is still like entering Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory – that little bit magical, even if it is sheerly due to its downright outrageous opulence. +971 4 301 7777; www.burj-al-arab.com.

The new: La Maison d’Hôtes
Tucked away in the city’s most prestigious beachside residential area, Jumeirah (Dubai’s Riviera, if you will), La Maison d’Hôtes is utterly unique within this sandy land of hotels. Each bespoke room is inspired by Middle Eastern or Asian culture, yet, with its pastry shop and French restaurant, the place still manages to retain the charm of a European B&B. Street 83B Jumeirah 1, +971 4 344 1838; www.lamaisondhotesdubai.com.

Do

The old: Desert safari
It’s a crime to visit Dubai and not see the rolling sand dunes outside the city. Convoy out of town in 4x4s, with a driver who’ll show off his dune-bashing prowess at any given opportunity. After stopping for regular photo ops, you’ll pitch up at a desert camp for a barbeque and shisha smoking session. Belly dancers and camel riding may also figure in the equation. Alpha Tours, +971 4 294 9888; www.alphatoursdubai.com.

The new: Active adventures
There are plenty of vibrant, active ways to see the desert and mountains. You could hot air balloon over them at dawn (www.ballooning.ae) or microglide in a fixed-wing aircraft (www.jac-uae.net). You could cycle though the hills to discover the supposed tomb of the Queen of Sheba (www.adventure.ae). Or you could go rock climbing and caving with groups of ultra adventurous Dubaians (www.mountainhighme.com).

For more information, see Time Out Dubai.

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