Eat
The old: Café Layali Zaman
This large, decaying building on the Corniche road is perfect for whiling away a warm evening by dipping into a mishmash of Arabian tapas and toking on a shisha. While the expats tend to avoid it, the locals have it heaving by 9pm, laughing it up over a family game of cards or backgammon. The place to be if you want to see how the Abu Dhabians do it. Lake Park, Corniche, +971 2 627 7745.

The new: Sardinia
The arrival of Sardinia on the Abu Dhabi dining scene a year ago was like a kick to the head. From its location, behind the Abu Dhabi Fitness Club, to its name (picked before they hired the chef), everything about this restaurant is surprising. Significantly, it drew our culinary attention away from some more traditional dining locations – still resting smugly on their laurels in the city’s finest hotels – and offered an explosive menu to boot. Abu Dhabi Health & Fitness Club, +971 2 446 5455; www.adhfc.com.

Sleep
The old: Le Méridien
Le Méridien stands as testament to a bygone era. Though shabby on the outside, the interior looks like one of David Lean’s Arabian sets, and you half expect Peter O’Toole to stumble in demanding ‘bed and sheets for the boy’. Despite the wealth of alternative options throughout the city, it sometimes feels as though the entire expat community can be found around the pool for Friday brunch. Tourist Club Area, +971 2 644 6666; www.starwoodhotels.com.

The new: The Shangri-La
The Shangri-La sits ‘Between the Bridges’ (a wonderfully named district situated near the mainland), mirroring the changing shape of Abu Dhabi in doing so. Some way from all the action, the hotel basks in glorious sunsets, lapping it up with the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, its ultra-glam neighbour. The attached souk – if not traditional – houses some of the city’s hippest eateries. Between the Bridges, +971 2 509 8888; www.shangri-la.com.

Do
The old: the camel safari
Just as Brighton has its donkey rides, Abu Dhabi has the camel safari. Head out to Al Ain for the haughtiest beasts – the local Hilton houses a couple of reputable tour groups, and you can hit the red dunes for anywhere between an hour and an entire night. Keep your camera hidden if you encounter any roaming Bedouin, or you could spark a minor international incident. Al Ain Camel Safaris. Al Ain Hilton Hotel, +971 3 768 8066; www1.hilton.com.

The new: skydiving
While our neighbours have the notorious Ski Dubai facility, Abu Dhabi spends its leisure time in the skies – almost. The Fitness Club, at the centre of the island, offers indoor skydiving at a reasonable price, allowing you to experience the thrill of freefalling at a convenient (and somewhat wimpy) 6ft above the ground. It’s all over in a matter of moments, but at least you can say you’ve actually defied gravity. Abu Dhabi Health & Fitness Club, +971 2 446 5455; www.adhfc.com.

For more information, see Time Out Abu Dhabi.

Read up on other cities:

• Abu Dhabi
• Amsterdam
• Beijing
• Buenos Aires
• Chicago
• Delhi
• Dubai
• Istanbul
• Lisbon
• London
• Mumbai
• New York
• St Petersburg
• Sydney
• Tel Aviv