Hip replacement: Beijing travel
Eat
Old: Quanjude
Quanjude was established in 1864 during the Qing dynasty and remains a time-honoured Beijing staple thanks to its beautiful, traditional setting and its unwavering dedication to serving the ultimate Peking duck. When it was founded, this restaurant in Beijing’s old commercial district of Qianmen became one of the city’s innovators, serving the crisp duck in thin pancakes rather than the original sesame wheat bun. Today, that’s become the norm, but those looking for a taste of old Beijing will do well to stop by this prestigious haunt – you may even spot a Communist Party leader or two. 32 Qianmen Dajie, Chongwen district, +86 10 6511 2418; www.quanjude.com.cn.
New: Duck de Chine
Adhering to the rule that all the trendiest places in town are the hardest to find, Duck de Chine lies inside an inconspicuous building somewhere behind Sanlitun’s famous bar street. The interior is best described as industrial chic, with high ceilings, exposed brick walls and huge, oversize red lanterns hanging above. A Bollinger champagne bar greets you at the entrance, and the menu boasts a cool crossover collection of Chinese dishes with the occasional French twist. However, the Peking duck is the piece de resistance, and is served and sliced at the table.1949 The Hidden City, Courtyard 4, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang district, +86 10 6501 8881; www.elite-concepts.com.
Sleep
Old: St Regis
With a list of guests that extends to celebrities and heads of state, the St Regis is Beijing’s most prestigious address. Many an important executive has thrashed out a deal in the Press Club Bar, and the Sunday brunch at the Garden Court is for those who prefer quality to quantity – or to put it another way, caviar to a greasy fry-up. The style is over-the-top elegance, with more marble and chestnut wood than you can shake a stick at: definitely a classy experience.1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, +86 10 6460 6688; www.starwoodhotels.com.
New: The Opposite House
Designed by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma and located in the heart of Beijing’s trendy Sanlitun district, The Opposite House is by far and away Beijing’s coolest hotel. A striking, open-plan lobby reaches up to the sky, while fashion-themed works of art draw your eye to different corners of the relaxed space. The zen rooms are the main reason to stay here, but the major bonus is the fantastic selection of restaurants and bars, including the popular after-work hangout Mesh and Mediterranean eatery Sureno.11 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang District, +86 10 6417 8899; www.theoppositehouse.com.
Do
Old: Liulichang
Once upon a time, Liulichang was the street where glazed tiles for the palaces and temples of the city were produced. Eventually, it became the area where scholars studying for their imperial exams would get their supplies, and is now renowned all over China for its collection of old books, calligraphy and art. Perhaps not as exciting as the more vibrant Panjiayuan market a few miles away, these days Liulichang is nevertheless a good place to scout Mao memorabilia, ornate wall hangings, tea and other trinkets.
New: Caochangdi
So up-and-coming it’s not even mentioned in most guidebooks (it’s also not particularly easy to locate), Coachangdi is nevertheless the best new place to get a faceful of modern Chinese art in Beijing. A growing collection of galleries, both local and international, showcase artists with a difference. If it’s an installation by one of Beijing’s hottest talents you’re after, or a show created by one of Asia’s most forward thinking curators, you won’t be disappointed.
For more information, see Time Out Beijing.
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