Tucked away in the New Territories, Tai Po is a district filled with both local charm and modern conveniences. Divided into two areas by the Lam Tsuen River, Tai Po is composed of Tai Po Market and Tai Wo – known as the old town and new town, respectively. Though Tai Po is considered the boondocks by most urban Hongkongers, the town is quite populated and bustles with its own frenetic pace. Despite being a little bit of a trek from the towering skyscrapers of Central, Tai Po still welcomes many new residents who are in search of cheap housing and clean air. By Ethan Wong

The vibe
Walk through Tai Po’s Fu Shin Street Market and you’re back 60 years. Underneath faded green awnings and red umbrellas, local merchants barter and banter with resident grandmothers over the price of the fresh produce. Pastel post-war apartments only six-stories high predominate, their windows filled with drying shirts and bras. Unrefrigerated meat hangs on hooks, and a neighbourhood cat lounges on the street. It’s local Hong Kong old-school – pre-glitz and glam, pre-chain supermarket, and pre-Disney. Yet, a head turn upwards reveals a bright-red Wellcome sign; and the bargaining grandmother chatting away on her cell phone. Hey – it’s as pastoral as you’re going to get in Hong Kong.

Property
Tai Po showcases a motley crew of housing, from post-war apartment buildings to public housing projects to condo complexes. Like most housing in the New Territories, apartments in Tai Po are known for their affordability, each square foot costing around $15. In Tai Po Market, the town centre mostly houses six-story apartments that are 50 to 60 years-old. Newer but still relatively old buildings include Uptown Plaza (9 Nam Wan Rd), which is conveniently located above the train station and shopping centre, and Tai Po Centre (3 Po Wu Lane). Most of the new complexes and developments are on the outskirts of the district and up in the mountains that surround Tai Po. The regally named Parc Versailles (3 Mui Shu Hang Rd) and Grand Dynasty View (8 Ma Wo Rd) both come equipped with pool and clubhouse. Most of these developments have a free shuttle bus that trucks residents to the local MTR station, so transportation is not an issue. Three-story village houses – increasingly anachronistic relics of the area’s rural past – are still a common sight.

Dine
Though you’ll have no problem finding a KFC or a Maxim’s, it’s definitely worth venturing off the chain store, food-processed path, and sampling some of the local – not to mention cheap and delicious – delicacies. If you ignore the cramped tables and shabby decor, these are some of the tastiest bites in all Hong Kong. For some traditional fare, stroll around Tai Po Market’s Tai Ming Square where there are a handful of small restaurants that are extremely popular with locals. While you watch the old ladies gossip and lounge in the square, dine on some roasted goose from Yat Lok Barbecue Restaurant (5 Tai Ming Lane, 2656 4732) that many say surpasses that from well-known Yung Kee in Central. A few stores down, Ching Tong Lam (26 Tai Ming Lane, 2638 3071) beats out all the other clear beef soup stands in the district. With lines at mealtimes, and a notorious soup-nazi like atmosphere (no extra soup, and they quickly latch up when the daily supply runs out), Ching Tong Lam serves a memorable bowl for under $30. Move over to Ah Po Tofu (Tai Kwong Lane) for a hearty helping of sweet tofu. Usually sold out by early afternoon, this grandmother-made sweet tofu is cooked everyday in small quantities, and sells for around $10. Across the river and over in Tai Wo, Rainbow Dessert (4 On Chee Rd, 2667 6025) dishes out more sweets with its gelatine goodies. Opened up by an ex-con who wanted to start anew (what better way than with sweets and rainbows?), Rainbow Desserts has locals flocking for their cool fruit and jelly confections.

Drink
For a night on the town, there are more than a few places to enjoy a drink, but don’t expect to see the diversity and glamour of Central – Tai Po’s watering holes are mostly comprised of pub-like bars. Lining Tai Po’s main drag, Kwong Fuk Road, and in the surrounding squares, these bars are mostly marked by large Carlsberg sign hanging above the entrance. Tung Sau Square, just off Kwong Fuk Road, features two establishments popular with Tai Po residents – 6V (12 Tung Sau Square) and Bar King Lounge (4 Tung Sau Square). Dingy, but with their alcoholic merits, the patrons at both are in high spirits all week long. For something with a little more of an ‘urban’ feel – and I mean little – saddle up at 133 Lounge (133 Kwong Fuk Road). Refurbished with leather stalls, wood-panelling, and posters of Che, Mao, and Marley, 133 Lounge has a modern-feel and is fairly comfortable. But urban comfort comes with urban prices – a pint will set you back $60 here.

Entertain
So you’ve exhausted your love for the Tai Po Mega Mall and have had your share of Hakka goodies: what next? Tai Po possesses two Hong Kong rarities: nature and antiquity. Surrounded by rolling green hills and water, the new town has many parks and hiking trails, the two most famous being the Tai Po Kau Nature Reserve (Tai Po Rd, near Tsung Tsai Yuen bus stop) and the Waterfront Park (Yuen Shin Rd, near Tai Po Industrial Estate, 2664 2107.). Put on that SPF – these two make for great day trips. And if you’re a true local, you’ll visit the natural wonder of the Lam Tsuen Wishing Tree (Tin Hau Temple, Tin Kok Rd, 2508 1234). Hongkongers, especially during Lunar New Year, attempt to get their ‘bo dip’ (their written wish tied to an orange) slung across one of the tree’s ancient branches – though the tree is temporarily under ‘wishing quarantine’ for its own preservation. For posterity, you should visit some of this old market town’s relics. The Hong Kong Railway Museum (13 Shung Tak St, 2653 3455), which used to service Tai Po as Tai Po Market KCR station, is perfectly preserved with its Asian-infused colonial architecture. Check out the Old Police Station (11 Wan Tau Kok Lane) as well.

Shop
Let’s face it: Tai Po isn’t a shopper’s paradise. Unless you’re looking for oversized Bambi T-shirts for $59, or are in desperate need of lavender ‘Mississippi State University’ cotton pullovers, Tai Po is somewhat lacking in the small-fashion boutique department. If you want to get your chic-freak on, head down to TST or Central. That being said, Tai Po still has quite a few solid chain-retailers located in its two biggest commercial shopping centres: Uptown Plaza (9 Nam Wan Rd) and Tai Po Mega Mall (8 & 10 On Pong Rd). 5cm and www.izzue.com both have branches in the town, while local Hong Kong chain Lillian has cute tops and dresses imported from Europe and Japan. Outside these malls and besides clothing retailers, Tai Po is brimming with cluttered knick-knack stores that have everything you never knew you needed – pink stationary and a Hello Kitty loofa, anybody?

Transport
If you’re not working in the area, Tai Po is a straightforward commute to Central due to its convenient location on the MTR. A journey to Central by train will take around 45 minutes and will involve three stop changes. The stops will be from Tai Po Market Station to Kowloon Tong where the interchange will be on the Kwun Tong Line towards Mong Kok, in the direction of Yau Ma Tei. Alternatively, you can ride the rails to Tsim Sha Tsui East and then hike it ten minutes to Tsim Sha Tsui Station, from where Central is two stops south on the Tsuen Wan line. An adult single ticket will cost $16.5 while an adult octopus will cost $14.60. Alternatively, CityBus 307 from Central Pier travels directly to Tai Po Centre in around 70 minutes, with a single journey costing $21.20. A direct taxi ride will be expensive, but if travelling late, could be the only option. Instead of hailing a cab, however, instead catch a ride on one of Hong Kong’s many private taxi networks, where discounts of up to 70-80 per cent are not uncommon. A taxi without discount would cost around $250.

Resident report
Living in this Hong Kong hamlet has its benefits – it has cheap goods, big houses, and clean air. Plus it lacks the Central crowd. Many expats move here for the larger housing that somewhat resembles the homes of western suburbia. And a number of international schools are also nearby both in the mid-levels of Tai Po and in Ma On Shan. Larry, 52 and an accountant, enjoys living in Tai Po. For him it’s “close to work” and “close to [his children’s] schools.” And, with good transportation, he finds it easy to get around to all the parks that Tai Po has to offer. Recent high school graduate Fredrika, 18, recently discovered the bucolic nature of Tai Po. “It’s very different than Central,” she says, “much more localised.” She points out that it’s harder to find someone who speaks English, but still enjoys finding cheap finds in the local shopping scene.

Read our property guide for:
Tai Po
Sai Kung
Shek O
Mui Wo

See also:
Paying the rent