You’ll be hard pressed to find a more bizarre celebration on the Chinese calendar than the Cheung Chau Bun Festival (May 1-11). To commemorate banishing evil spirits from the island by Cheung Chau’s patron god Pak Tai, the festivities used to climax with the infamous ‘bun scramble’ where hundreds of male villagers would scale three 60-feet tall bamboo towers studded with edible, steamed buns. This revered tradition was axed in 1978 after a bun tower collapsed, injuring many. Despite its revival in 2005 by popular request, the Leisure and Cultural Services Department idiot-proofed the entire proceedings by implementing shorter metal frames, mandatory climbing lessons for participants, and safety harnesses to boot. More notably, the buns were also replaced – by 8,000 plastic replicas, which are apparently safer, and more hygienic, than their edible counterparts…

Here’s a helpful little guide to help you navigate the bun, er, fun.

DO look out for the ‘floats’
Bun scrambling aside, another festival highlight on May 10 is the annual Piu Sik (‘floating colours’) parade that features costumed children who seem to ‘float’ through the streets, thanks to cleverly disguised stilts inside their get-ups. Starting at 2pm, the procession weaves its way across the island before adjourning at 4pm outside Pak Tai Temple, where the main festivities are held.

DON’T expect McNuggets
Traditionally, the consumption of meat is discouraged amongst islanders three days prior to the main event to honour the festival – even McDonalds on the island will only serve veggie burgers during this period.

DO get your climbing gear on
Applications for the official Bun Scramble have now closed, but it’s not too late to test your climbing skills under the guidance of professional climbing instructors at the Climbing Carnival (noon-6pm) on May 1. A number of miniature practice towers will be set up for different age groups at the Pak Tai Temple Playground, along with game stalls, competitions, and a wishing bun tower. Just turn up to register on the day.

DON’T mix up your buns
Three-day-old buns from the towers used to be distributed to locals after the scramble, but officials decided that it was a recipe for food poisoning. Nowadays, spectators get to redeem coupons for a plastic replica bun to keep as a souvenir, whilst thousands of real buns from local bakeries get handed out the day after the scramble itself.

DO collect tickets in advance
Admission to the Bun Scrambling Competition (May 10-11) is free, but ticketed, and there are only around 1,000 tickets that get handed out. The giveaway starts at 10pm on Pak She First Street, near the Pak Tai Temple Playground where the bun competition commences at the stroke of midnight. Expect queues, so start lining up early to avoid disappointment.

DON’T worry (too much) about transport
The only way to get to Cheung Chau is via ferry from Central (Pier 5), but the route will have some additional services on May 10 from 10am onwards. An extra late ferry will also take you back to Central at 1.15am after the big scramble (see www.nwff.com.hk closer to the date for details).

Tina Leung