• Around Town Home
• What's On
• Features
• 
• 
• Bookmark this site

There are the days when you just need to get away from Hong Kong Island, days when the materialism and commercialism get so in your face that you’re ready to just jump into a boat and sail away. Last weekend, we had one such day. Sure some people may pay for pedicures and back rubs to relax, but the truth is facials and massages just don’t cut it. If you really want to get away from it all, you’ve got to get out there. Way out.

Upon arrival, we were assaulted by people all too eager to rent us a room. Most offered reasonable rates of around $200 a night, but we had already made reservations at the Cheung Chau B&B. We headed straight down Tung Wan Road with our eyes open for the bed and breakfasts’ yellow walls and blue canopy, passing many alluring food stalls with fried chicken wings and freshly made chips. Hanging colourful sarongs called for our attention, beach toys spoke to the kids within us.

The B&B was only a five minute walk from the ferry pier. With a friendly staff and comfy rooms (with a full bath we’d need after a day on the waves), we rested our tired heads on the inviting pillows and prepared for an early start.

Waking up on an island, at a weekend, is almost unbeatable. Why? Because it’s not to the sound of your cell phone alarm beeping in your ear, with you hitting the snooze button to delay the impeding trudge to the office. No way, this is island time. Waking up to sunshine and breakfast, we took a dip at the beach, and then headed over to the Cheung Chau Windsurfing Centre.

A short walk south of Tung Wan beach (the main one on the island), the CCWC holds options aplenty to get out and active on the water. Windsurfing is a favoured sport off these fragrant isles, and especially on Cheung Chau after island local Lee Lai-shan snagged a gold medal for Hong Kong at the ’96 Olympics. The CCWC is where Lee actually trained, and is full of the ambitious vibes of nautical achievement. It is also figuratively and literally miles away from Central; with regulars sipping beers on the balcony café, and surfers young and old chatting about the waves. If you want to windsurf, CCWC is undoubtedly the place to go. But if you want to kayak, this is also the spot.

Stephanie Chow, the tanned, super fit (and hot) resident surfer girl of CCWC (she’s also club manager), throws us a doubtful glance when we tell her we want to kayak all around the island. But she rents us the kayak anyway – only after we promise to bring lots of water, sunscreen, and a cell phone with her number saved in a zip-lock baggie in case of an emergency. Then it is into the kayak with a “Bye-bye, good luck!” as we push off the sandy beach, and away from civilization.

After an exhausting, yet life affirming, four-hour kayak around the island (see: Water mess), we feel like kings of the ocean. It’s time to treat ourselves to some well deserved cheeseburgers and beer at the CCWC. Chatting with the friendly staff, Lai Gum, Lee Lai-Shan’s legendary uncle (he owns CCWC, was one of Hong Kong’s first professional windsurfers, and taught the Olympian herself) offers us an awesome lodging option. Get on his good side and he’ll offer you one of the four rooms in the basement of his house up the hill for $200 a night. He’s related to an Olympic gold medallist, and it’s cheaper than the B&B. We’re so there.

After a good night’s sleep, the next day we’re off the water and onto bikes for a ride along the island’s various paths – the bikes are a lot cheaper than the kayaks, and available right by the pier. With paved paths taking you to all the spots worth seeing on the island, from the temples to the rock formations, you can bike without worry due to Cheung Chau’s lack of cars.

With precious few hours left before it’s time to go home, there’s nothing to do but lie on the beach under a colourful umbrella and watch the beautiful sunset while children build sandcastles. The ferry ride won’t be long, but it does seem like forever since we were in the city. And that’s a good thing. We’ll still have our sore muscles to remind us of our adventure.

Ferry from Pier 5 at Central Ferry Terminal. Check www.nwff.com.hk for schedule and price.
B&B Bed and Breakfast. www.bbcheungchau.com.hk. 2986 9990. 12-14 Tung Wan Rd. Standard Room Sun-Thurs $390, Fri $490, Sat $690.
Cheung Chau Windsurfing Centre. www.ccwindc.com.hk. 2981 2772. 1 Hak Pai Rd.

While fishing off piers and in the harbour is a common sight across Hong Kong, the world of deep sea fishing can seem thousands of miles away. Yet, it’s actually within easy reach.

Triton Fishing is a Wan Chai based shop that charters regular offshore fishing trips to an oil rig in the South China Sea. Every day except Mondays, Triton’s boats depart from the public pier in Kwun Tong. Two day excursions start at 10pm, when the boats depart on an eight to ten hour ride to reach the fishing grounds.

However, before casting off, people should possess basic fishing skills such as knowing how to tie their own hooks, and work the wind reels. It’s best to learn these basic moves before forking over $1,750 per person, a figure that doesn’t include equipment rental costs, which start at $400.

Asiatic Marine is another company angling for your deep sea fishing affections. Pricier than Triton, Asiatic Marine’s excursions vary according to distance travelled. A trip to their main site, 65km south of Hong Kong, is $7,500 per head; while trips to oil rigs 125km away will cost you $12,800.

By this point, you might be wondering why deep sea fishing takes place at oil rigs. The answer is because there are no large scale coral reefs in nearby waters able to attract big fish. Oil rigs provide shelter for fish of all sizes, making them an unlikely, but rich, place for fishing.

Both groups have minimum enrolment, so best to get a gang together before booking. All trips are also weather dependent, so flexibility is the watchword. Try your luck; you might just catch yourself a blue fin tuna, or even a mahi mahi. Bong Miquiabas

Triton Fishing, 1/F & 2/F, Pinnacle Building, 9 Ship St, Wanchai, 6030 2042.

Asiatic Marine, GPO Box 9726, Central, 2104 2297, info@asiaticmarine.com.

Dude. Seriously. It’s time to learn how to talk like a surfer, catch a wave and ride the barrel. But there’s no need to cry if you can’t afford the ticket to Hawaii, you can surf right here all year round.

Pui O beach on south Lantau is Hong Kong’s best place to drop in on a wave during the summer, thanks to the typhoon season. But if you can’t stand up yet, book yourself a private lesson on the weekend with Treasure Island (www.treasureislandhk.com, $150 for the instructor and a further $100 to rent the board per hour). Kids can also be taught one-on-one at the same price, but they tend to pick up the sport faster at surfing camps, which are offered on weekdays in the summer (see Kids Feature TOHK 4).

When seasons change, so do the surfing spots. From September to February, grab your board and cruise on over to one of the two Big Wave Bays (known as Tai Long Wan in Cantonese). Both are surf-able, although the Big Wave Bay in Sai Kung is only advised for experienced surfers as waves can reach up to six feet high. The other Big Wave Bay is in Shek O, and it’s great for surfers of all levels, though that also means it’s usually more crowded. There is an upside though; the surfing community are generally willing to trade tips and help surfing newbies when asked (just don’t steal their wave bro). Jennifer Chung

To get to Pui O Beach, catch the ferry to Mui Wo from pier 6 at the Central Ferry Pier.

Mon-Sat $13, Sun & public holidays $19.20.

For Big Wave Bay in Sai Kung, take the MTR to Hang Hau Station and switch to minibus 101M.
For Big Wave bay in Shek O, go to Shau Kei Wan Station and take the number 9 bus.

Read our other features:
Romancing Sai Kung
Learning to let go
Cabin fever
Water mess