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Getting high

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Bong Miquiabas attempts to summit Hong Kong’s highest buildings, but finds his way blocked at every turn

Read the other features:
The high life

Dizzy new heights

Despite our city being blessed with an overabundance of gleaming towers of glass and steel, it is surprisingly difficult for the average Hongkonger to actually ascend our loftiest skyscrapers. Most are off limits to Joe Public, with only a few buildings boasting viewing floors halfway up.


My task was to reach the highest floor possible in each building without insider assistance or, more importantly, detection.


My quest began with Two IFC. Having heard about tight security, I was ready when a ground floor staffer greeted me by asking, “What is the reason for your visit?” I replied cheerfully: “I’d like to get as high in your building as I can.” Confused, the staffer asked for my photo ID and phone number before handing me a badge to wear. She pointed me towards a lift to the 55th floor, the highest in Two IFC for public viewing.


This floor houses the Hong Kong Monetary Authority’s public library, and exhibits things such as ‘the history of a Hong Kong bank note.’ Sensing my eyes glazing over, I slyly tried to make my way onto a lift to the 88th floor, the city’s highest. But a security guard spotted me before I could press the close button, and I was put on the next lift down to the ground floor.


That effort at Two IFC bested both my next attempts. Before I could brush by the reception attendant at The Center, he quizzed me with impressive economy, saying: “These are all offices. No visitors allowed.” He politely invited me to view a monitor next to his desk that described the 73 floors I would never see.


Cheung Kong Centre security was no less effective. Switching tactics, I followed a badge-wearing man into a side entrance – only to be met by three security guards. Their stares encouraged me to turn a corner, where five more of their uniformed colleagues were standing. Switching tactics again, I meekly asked the friendliest-looking guard how I might ascend their impressive building. His smile vanished like a vacant MTR seat, although to his credit he volunteered that the Bank of China “has a nice observation floor.”


Indeed, the Bank of China Tower does have a nice observation floor, on the 43rd level, with sweeping views of Victoria Harbour. But the better 43rd floor view belongs to Central Plaza – the windows are bigger and face every direction. And, unlike the BOCT, Central Plaza’s higher floors are open for exploration. I rode one lift to the 69th, which didn’t have any windows in its hallway, but there was something even more exciting: a lift to the 75th floor, with a sign indicating ‘The Apex’.


I pressed the lift button, and, for a tantalizing second, the number 75 lit, before fading to inert blackness. Repeated attempts yielded the same cruel result. Determined, I roamed the 69th and found a cargo lift. Once inside I looked excitedly for the highest floor I could select… which turned out to be one level up. Still hopeful, I exited on the 70th, but felt as if I’d come across a horror movie set. Substation doors warned of danger, and machine sounds revved everywhere, loud enough to drown out screams. Without windows even, this was the highest floor I would reach in Hong Kong.


I called it quits as I descended to ground level, trudging out onto our city’s inviting, overcrowded streets.

 

Read the other features:
The high life
Dizzy new heights

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7 Comments Add your comment

  • Bong's article is very informative. I did not know that the observation areas that Bong visited were kept out of public access. You would think that more skyscrapers in H.K. would have viewing areas that are available for the general public to enjoy, even if it meant paying for an admissions fee!

    Posted by Frank Yang on June 22, 2008 at 10:50 PM
  • Very nicely written... got my money's worth!

    Posted by Eugene ND on June 23, 2008 at 09:51 PM
  • Really enjoyed the article. Perfect way to spend a day exploring the city and learning about different buildings' hospitality policies.

    Posted by Danny Brassell on June 24, 2008 at 05:31 AM
  • What a fun article. Bong is a gifted writer and I imagine a wonderful travel companion. Better luck next time!

    Posted by David Bilik on June 24, 2008 at 08:44 AM
  • Found your magazine on the internet and read with great interest your two articles, "Getting High" and "A Battle of Wits". Good job Bong, we enjoyed them both.

    Posted by Edna & Jim Old on October 20, 2008 at 07:22 AM
  • Loved it.

    Posted by Grant on February 25, 2010 at 12:56 AM
  • i have heard the top floor of central plaza is opened to the public in the sense that it is a church with 360 degree view, glass windows and all! I wonder why you couldn't find that?

    Posted by eunice on July 4, 2010 at 05:51 PM

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