While Aussie chef and restaurateur Luke Mangan might be best known for his Sydney dining pop-ups and restaurants (Luke’s Kitchen, Luc-San), he was born in our fair city and to here he now returns – at least for a while. The occasion? He’s bringing with him an exciting new project, a modern French bistro named Bistrot Bisou. It will replace the now-closed Beso at Hotel Indigo on Flinders Street – a poignant thread of connection between the two restaurants is that both names translate into the word 'kiss' – and operate as a sophisticated destination for vino dates, weeknight dinners, special occasions and everything in between.
For many years, Melbourne's been blessed with a très bon collection of French restaurants – nonetheless, Mangan's deft touch feels like a timely contribution.
“Melbourne has a real European feel to it – especially as we come into the cooler months – and French fare is having a moment, so I can’t wait to share my take with diners,” Mangan says. “We’ve created a thoughtful menu full of classics like steak frites, an incredible twice-baked gruyere souffle and apple tarte tatin, with modern twists. Enjoying these in the stylish bar and dining room, with its leather banquette seats, marble benchtops, red leather bar stools, and gold touches, you’ll feel like you’ve taken a trip to Paris.”
Mangan was once trained under the revered Michel Roux at the three Michelin-starred Waterside Inn in England, so here's a man who knows his stuff.
At Bistrot Bisou, visitors will be treated to dishes cooked over the kitchen’s wood-fired grill, with slow-burning ironbark and hardwood charcoal used to add smoky flavours, while the team will also be smoking their own salmon and crafting housemade terrines from free-range Victorian roosters.
That team includes chef Rory Kennedy at the helm, who was the former co-owner of Northcote’s hatted Vex Dining and head chef at Bar Romantica.
Kennedy points to the expansive open kitchen overlooking the restaurant as a vehicle for connection between staff and diners. “There’s nothing better than seeing people smiling from ear to ear after they’ve enjoyed a great meal,” he says. “To get that feedback in real time is priceless, while guests will be taken on a sensory experience from the comfort of their seats, as they see and smell their food being prepared on the wood-fired grill before they taste it.”
While it all sounds rather swish at this stage, we're promised the French bistro experience will be a "relaxed" affair, complete with modern takes on Gallic classics, cocktails and a slick international wine list that showcases French and Aussie varietals. Oui oui, we can't wait to get a table.
Bistrot Bisou will open in early June for lunch from Wednesday to Friday, and for dinner from Tuesday to Saturday. For more information, visit the website.
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